Keep cozy on the slopes this winter with this versatile crochet ski hat pattern! The double layer diamond pattern provides extra warmth, and if you use a larger hook, you could even line it with fleece or fur. There’s almost no end to the customization you can do to make the Snow Country Ski Hat uniquely yours! Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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Difficulty:
Intermediate/Advanced
Materials Needed:
5mm (H) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
225-250 yards of #4 worsted weight Red Heart Super Saver yarn in “Grey Heather” <–Click here to purchase some
yarn needle for weaving in ends
scissors
Stitches Used:
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
hdc = half-double crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
FPtr = front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog = front post treble crochet 2 together
rsc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
st/sts = stitch/stitches
prev = previous
Additional Terms:
hdc in the 3rd loop = Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop.
Gauge:
14 dc stitches in 4″
Measurements:
8.5” tall and 10.5″ wide (excluding ear flaps/ties), and should fit a teen or adult. If your hat is coming out small go up a hook size or two.
Additional Notes:
-To work this pattern you must be familiar with the Diamond Stitch, the Shell Stitch, and the Reverse Single Crochet, or Crab Stitch. Click on the links to view some excellent tutorials from Moogly, and Hopeful Honey on how to work these stitches. You must also be familiar with working in the 3rd loop of an hdc stitch.
-ch-1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
-FPtr2tog counts as a stitch. Don’t forget to skip that spot in your round when making the stitch
Snow Country Ski Hat Pattern (US Terms):
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Round 1: working in magic circle, [sc, 5 dc] 4 times, join with sl st to first sc. (4 5-dc shells, 4 sc)
Your piece will take on a square appearance after completing this round. Don’t be alarmed–this hat will change shape many times over the course of the next few rounds, and will not start to look circular until after finishing a couple rounds with no increases.
Round 2: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the 3rd stitch of your 5-dc shell), sk 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in sc, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (4 split shells, 4 dc)
Round 3: sl st over 1 st, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the center st of split shell), sk st, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in sc, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 5-dc shells, 8 sc)
Round 4: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 shells, 8 sc)
Round 5: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the 3rd stitch of your 5-dc shell), sk 2 sts, work (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in sc, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 6: sl st over 1 st, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the center st of split shell), sk st, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 5-dc shells)
Rounds 7-10: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 5-dc shells)
**Your hat should measure at least 10” from side to side, after you finish this top part of the hat. From the crown of the hat to where the shells end, should measure at least 5”**
Round 11: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (72)
Round 12: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 13: ch 1, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 14: ch 1, FPtr around the 2nd sc of round 12, sc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in round 12 that you just worked the first FPtr around, move forward 3 sts in round 12 and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current round, *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in round 12 that you put the last leg of the previous FPtr2tog, skip forward 3 sts in round 12, and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current round; repeat from * across, When you get to the last stitch in your round, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook into last st of round, YO, and pull through all remaining loops, join with sl st to first FPtr. (72)
Round 15: ch 1, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next st, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around the top of the first AND last FPtr in round 14 (this will pull them together to look like they are one stitch), put the second leg around the next FPtr2tog from round 14. *sc in each of the next 3 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around the top of the FPtr2tog in round 14 that you just came off of, place the second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next FPtr2tog from round 14; repeat from * around, (Note: The final leg of the final FPtr2tog will be worked around the same stitches as the first leg of the first FPtr2tog in the round), sc in final st of round, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 17: ch 1, dc in same st as join and each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 18: ch 1, FPtr around next post stitch of round 16, sc in next 3 sts. FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in round 16 that you just did the first FPtr around, move forward 3 stitches in round 16 and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next post stitch, sc in next 3 sts of current round *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in round 16 that you put the last leg of the previous FPtr2tog, skip forward 3 sts in round 16, and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next post stitch, sc in next 3 sts of current round; repeat from * around, when you get to the last stitch in your round, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook through that last stitch, YO, and pull up a loop, insert your hook under the first FPtr, and then pull that loop through all remaining loops. This will join the round. (72)
Round 19: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (72)
Round 20: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Rounds 21-22: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Earflap:
Note: I tend to use a bit more tension on these so the stitches are tighter to better keep out the wind.
Row 1: ch 1, sc in first stitch and next 13 sts, ch 1, turn. (14)
Rows 2-4: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 5: sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (12)
Rows 6-7: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 8: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn. (10)
Row 9: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 10: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 11: sc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Count over 27 stitches, attach yarn, begin second earflap. If you want a wider opening for your face, count over 28 or 29 stitches. Your earflaps should be somewhat close together in the back so they cover your ears without blocking your view. 😉
Earflap 2:
Row 1: ch 1, sc in first stitch and next 13 sts, ch 1, turn. (14)
Rows 2-4: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 5: sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (12)
Rows 6-7: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 8: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn. (10)
Row 9: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 10: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 11: sc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6)
Edging:
Round 1: sc evenly around the edge of the hat, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2: Working in the opposite direction, ch 1, rsc (or crab stitch) around the edge of the hat, join to first rsc.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Hat ties:
Cut 9, 24″ lengths of yarn for each tie. Thread through the bottom of each earflap, braid, and knot off.
Top tassel (Optional):
Cut 6, 24″ lengths of yarn for a tassel. Thread through the top of the hat and braid. Knot at the end.
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