This sweet 0-3 month crochet lace baby bonnet pattern is a true heirloom piece with lots of vintage-style charm. It’s filled with lace textures that complement, and contrast for a one of a kind accessory. The Lavender Blue Baby Bonnet is lightweight, spring-like, and perfect for Easter. It would also make an adorable photo prop for a newborn photo-shoot. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
This bonnet pattern is also very quick to make and works well for a last minute gift to crochet for a baby shower. It’s a classic looking piece that makes a stylish addition to any modern baby’s spring wardrobe.
When I first designed this bonnet I used a soft, stretchy baby yarn called “Baby Fingering” yarn from Red Heart that is no longer being manufactured. so I’ve updated this pattern using Aunt Lydia’s Fashion #3 Crochet Thread in “Plum” which is a beautiful dusty purple color. It’s 100% cotton which means it’s easy to care for, and should look nice for a long time.
If you prefer to make this with something other than cotton yarn Red Heart makes Heart and Sole #1 fingering weight sock yarn which a great substitution. You could also make this with 2 strands of crochet thread, or only one strand if you’re looking for a preemie size. It’s a versatile pattern, and can be made larger using sport or DK yarn, and larger hook sizes. I’ve included some suggestions for the “preemie” size in the “Additional Notes” section.
Difficulty:
Intermediate
Materials needed:
2.75mm (C) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
4mm (G) hook for 6-12 months size
100-150 yards of Red Heart Aunt Lydia’s Fashion #3 Crochet Thread in “Plum”
1 yard of 1/4″ satin ribbon
Scissors
Yarn needle
Ribbon needle
Stitches used:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
3dc cluster = dc3tog worked in same stitch
tr2tog = treble crochet 2 together
FPtr2tog = front post treble crochet 2 together
Additional Terms:
sk = skip
prev = previous
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
Special Stitches:
V-stitch = (dc, ch 1, dc) in same st
Gauge:
For 0-3 months, your circle should measure 2 1/2″ across after round 7
Measurements:
0-3 months, unstretched: 6″ tall at its tallest point, by 5″ front to back
Additional Notes:
-ch-1 at beginning of row or round does not count as a stitch, ch-3, and ch-4 do count as stitches.
-Use relaxed tension to ensure measurements come out right.
-It is possible to make a Preemie/newborn size using #10 crochet thread, and a 2.75mm hook. Substitute tr for dc in row 18. Follow the instructions as written except for those changes. Scroll to the bottom of the post to see pictures of this hat done in thread. Preemie size should measure 5″ tall by 4″ front to back, 6-12 months should measure, unstretched, 7″ tall, by 6″ front to back.
Lavender Blue Baby Bonnet Crochet Pattern (US terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Round 1: ch 4, join with sl st to first ch forming a ring.
Round 2: ch 1, 12 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, 3dc cluster in first st, ch 2, *3dc cluster in next st, ch 2; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3dc cluster. (12 3dc clusters, 12 ch-2 sps)
Round 4: Note: each flower petal will take up two ch-2 sps. ch 1, in first ch-2 sp: *hdc, 2 dc, tr2tog placing second leg of the tr2tog in next ch-2 sp, 2 dc, hdc, sl st, sl st into next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around. (6 petals)
Turn your flower over and work this next step across the back side. Don’t forget to turn it back over so the front side is facing you after you end the round.
Round 5: working at the back of the flower, ch 1, sl st around the top of the first 3dc cluster from round 3, *ch 2, sl st around the top of the next 3dc cluster from round 3; repeat from * around. (12 ch-2 sps)
Round 6: with right side of flower facing, working into first ch-2 sp, (ch 4 (counts as first dc+ch 1), dc) *working into next ch-2 sp, v-stitch; repeat from * around, join with sl st to top of 3rd chain. (12 v-stitches)
Round 7: ch 1, *4 sc in ch-1 sp (this is the center of the v-stitch); repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (48)
Your circle should measure 2 1/2″ across at this point
Round 8: ch 1, dc in next 4 sts, FPtr around where the two v-stitches from round 6 make an upside down V or pyramid shape *dc in next 4 sts, FPtr around where the two v-stitches from round 6 make an upside down V or pyramid shape; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. (60)
You will now be creating the diamond shapes at the back of the bonnet. Round 9 is the bottom of the diamond, round 10 is the top.
Round 9: ch 1, dc in next 2 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around first FPtr from prev round, place second leg around next FPtr from prev round, *working behind the second leg of the FPTR2tog dc in next 4 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around next FPtr from prev round, place second leg around next FPtr from prev round; repeat from * around, dc in final 2 sts, join with sl st to first dc. (60)
Round 10: ch 1, dc in first st, FPtr around first FPtr2tog from prev round, working behind the FPtr, dc in the next 4 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around FPtr2tog from prev round, place second leg around next FPtr2tog creating the top of the diamond, working behind the stitch you just made, dc in the next 2 sts *dc in next two sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around FPtr2tog from previous round, place second leg around next FPtr2tog, working behind the stitch you just made dc in next 2 sts; Repeat from * until you have 12 sts left in the round, then dc in next 2 sts, FPtr around FPtr2tog from prev round that you just worked around, when you have two loops left on your hook, dc in the next st, Note: it’s like working the FPtr2tog, but with the second part being a dc instead of a tr, ch 1, turn Note: there should be 9 sts left unworked at the end of the round.
You will now be working in rows.
Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, ch 3, turn. (52)
Row 12: sk st, *4 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * across, dc in final st of row. You will not skip any stitches after the last shell. ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn. (17 shells)
Row 13: sk 2 sts to center of shell, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of first shell *sk 4 sts to center of next shell, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell; repeat from * across, dc in final st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn. (17 shells)
Row 14: sk 2 sts to center of shell, 2 dc in center creating half-shell, [sk 4 sts to center of next shell, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell] 15 times, sk 4 sts, 2 dc in center of final shell, sk 2 sts, dc in top of ch-3, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn. (2 dc, 15 complete shells, 2 half-shells)
Row 15: sk st, 2 dc between 1st and 2nd dc of half-shell from prev row, [sk 4 sts to center of next shell, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell] 15 times, 2 dc between 1st and 2nd dc of last half-shell, sk st, dc in top of ch-3, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn. (2 dc, 15 complete shells, 2 half-shells)
Row 16: sk st, 2 dc between 1st and 2nd dc of half-shell from prev row, [sk 4 sts to center of next shell, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell] 15 times, 2 dc between 1st and 2nd dc of last half-shell, sk st, dc in top of ch-3, ch 1, turn. (2 dc, 15 complete shells, 2 half-shells)
Row 17: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts; repeat from * across, ending with a sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (56)
Row 18: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn. (56)
Row 19: sk st, sl st into next st, *ch 2, sk st, sl st into next st; repeat from * across placing final sl st in side of dc from prev row, turn. (28 ch-2 sps)
Row 20: *working into ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 hdc, ch1, sl st); repeat from * across. (28 petals)
Turn bonnet sideways and work the next row across the bottom
Row 21: working evenly along the bottom, put 1 sc in each sc, and 2 sc in each dc st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Using a ribbon needle, run 1 yard of 1/4″ ribbon through the dc from row 18. Cut ends on a diagonal and finish ends of ribbon with fray check or clear nail polish. If the ribbon ties are too long for your taste, you may trim to fit.
If you decide to make your Lavender Blue baby bonnet in #10 thread, it should end up looking something like this. So cute and delicate, don’t you think?
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