The Rosemary Green baby bonnet is the counterpart to my Lavender Blue baby bonnet pattern released earlier this month. Filled with rich, earthy hues, flower details, and lacy stitches, this crochet bonnet speaks of forest adventures, and the woodsy smell of mosses, and leaves. A delicate ribbon tie adds to the vintage charm. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
How to Crochet a Vintage-Style Bonnet
I used Loops and Threads “Woolike” sock yarn to crochet this in, and can’t get over how soft it is! Like the Lavender Blue baby bonnet, you could make this with crochet thread for a preemie/newborn size, or sport weight yarn for a 3-6 months size.
The variety of stitches and the earth-tone colors make this crochet bonnet look like something a from a vintage magazine! Because of its charm and timeless aesthetic it would be a beautiful heirloom quality baby gift to crochet for new mothers.
Let’s get started!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. When you purchase something using these links a small amount of the sales price goes to me to help keep this site, and the patterns on it free. You do not pay any extra for the item you purchase.
2.75mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge. One of my testers needed to use a 4mm hook.
100-150 yards of Loops and Threads “Woolike” sock yarn in “Sage”
Yarn needle or ribbon needle
1 yard of 1/4″ or 3/8″ ribbon
Fray check or clear nail polish
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
BPsc = back post single crochet
BPhdc = back post half double crochet
BPdc = back post double crochet
V-Stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in the stitch mentioned, then continue following the instructions as written
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
prev = previous
26 stitches in 4″, or 3 1/4″ across after round 9.
0-3 months: 5″ by 5″ using fingering/sock yarn and 2.75mm hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
Additional Notes for making this with #10 thread:
I worked this bonnet up in #10 crochet thread, and have received a lot of interest from the pictures I shared. Here are the things I modified that you’ll want to be aware of.
For row 23: work FPtr sts instead of FPdc sts so there is room for the ribbon to thread through.
For the bottom (scalloped ruffle): after finishing the row of sc along the bottom that the pattern calls for (I did 60 sc), you’ll turn, and repeat *ch 3, sk 2 sts, sl st* across, then turn, and come back the other way repeating *(4 hdc, sl st) in each ch-3 sp, across* Fasten off and weave in ends
Rosemary Green Baby Bonnet Pattern (US Terms):
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6)
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st *2 sc in next st, sc in next stitch; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
Round 4: (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st *(hdc, 2 dc) in next st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Turn your piece over and work this next step across the back side. Don’t forget to turn it back over so the front side is facing you after you end the round.
Round 5: working at the back of the piece behind the petals you just made, sl st into back of first petal, ch 3, sl st into back of next petal *ch 3, sl st into back of next petal; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 ch 3 sps)
Round 6: sl st into first ch-3 s, (hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sl st), *sl st into next ch-3 sp (hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sl st); repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Round 7: ch 1, dc in first st, The rest of the stitches for this round will be work as back post sts: *BPdc around hdc, BPhdc around next 2 dc, BPsc around next 2 tr, BPhdc around next 2 dc, BPdc around hdc, dc in sl st; repeat from * around omitting dc in sl st on final repeat, join with sl st to first dc. (54)
Round 8: sl st into next st, ch 4 (counts as first tr st), dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sl st in next st *hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, tr in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around. When there are 4 sts left in the round: hdc, dc in next 2 sts, tr in last st, join with sl st to top of ch-4. (54)
Round 9: ch 1, *BPsc around tr, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts, BPdc around next hdc st, dc in sl st, BPdc around next hdc st, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts, BPsc around, tr; repeat from *around, BPsc around last tr of round, join with sl st to first BPsc.(54)
Gauge check: Circle should measure 3 1/4″ across at this point
Round 10: ch 1, (hdc, dc) in first st, (dc, tr) in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st *(hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (11 petals)
Round 11: ch 1, *BPdc around hdc st, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts , BPsc around next 2 tr sts, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts, BPdc around next hdc, skip sl st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (88)
You will switch to working in rows now. Row 12 is worked on the right side.
Row 12: sc in next 71 sts, ch 1, turn. (71)
Row 13 (back side): FPsc around each st of row, ch 1, turn. (71)
Row 14: sc in each st across, ch 3 (counts as first stitch of row 15), turn. (71)
Row 15 (back side): sk st, V-stitch in next st, [sk 2 sts, V-stitch in next st] 22 times, when you get to the end of the row: sk st, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (23 V-stitches)
Row 16: sc in first st, 5 dc in first V-st, sc in next V-stitch, *5 dc in next V-stitch, sc in next V-stitch; repeat from * across. You will end with a sc in the top of the ch-3 from prev row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn.(12 shells)
Row 17 (back side): sk 2 sts, *V-stitch in next st at top of shell, sk 2 sts, V-stitch in the sc between the shells, sk 2 sts; repeat from * across, dc in final sc of row, ch 1, turn. (23 V-stitches)
Repeat rows 16-17, 2 more times.
Row 22: 2 sc in first st, sc in each remaining st across, Final sc will be worked in the top of the ch-3 from previous row, ch 3 (counts as first st of row 23), turn. (72)
Row 23 (back side): FPdc around each sc of prev row, ch 1, turn. (72)
Row 24: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (72)
Row 25 (back side): FPsc around each sc from prev row, turn. (72)
Row 26: *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in the next, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * across. (12 shells)
Turn the bonnet and work a row of sc along the entire bottom of bonnet.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
With a ribbon needle, weave length of ribbon through the row of FPdc (row 23).
Coat ends of ribbon with fray check or clear nail polish to prevent fraying.
Want more gorgeous crochet patterns, and a little encouragement for your day? Sign up for my newsletter here! That way you’ll never miss out on special events, or freebies I’m offering.
JOIN ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA
I would love to see a picture when you’re done, so please feel free to come by my Facebook group and show off your project! Be sure to tag @kirstenhollowaydesigns when you share pictures of your finished hat on Instagram.
PATTERN TERMS AND CONDITIONS:
You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
If you enjoyed this pattern or found it useful, why not share a link to this post with your friends?