The Rosemary Green baby bonnet is the counterpart to my Lavender Blue baby bonnet pattern released earlier this month. Filled with rich, earthy hues, flower details, and lacy stitches, this crochet bonnet speaks of forest adventures, and the woodsy smell of mosses, and leaves. A delicate ribbon tie adds to the vintage charm. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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How to Crochet a Vintage-Style Bonnet
I used Loops and Threads “Woolike” sock yarn to crochet this in, and can’t get over how soft it is! Like the Lavender Blue baby bonnet, you could make this with crochet thread for a preemie/newborn size, or sport weight yarn for a 3-6 months size.
The variety of stitches and the earth-tone colors make this crochet bonnet look like something a from a vintage magazine! Because of its charm and timeless aesthetic it would be a beautiful heirloom quality baby gift to crochet for new mothers.
Let’s get started!
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2.75mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge. One of my testers needed to use a 4mm hook.
100-150 yards of Loops and Threads “Woolike” sock yarn in “Sage”
Yarn needle or ribbon needle
1 yard of 1/4″ or 3/8″ ribbon
Fray check or clear nail polish
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
FPsc = front post single crochet
BPsc = back post single crochet
BPhdc = back post half double crochet
BPdc = back post double crochet
V-Stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in the stitch mentioned, then continue following the instructions as written
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
prev = previous
26 stitches in 4″, or 3 1/4″ across after round 9.
0-3 months: 5″ by 5″ using fingering/sock yarn and 2.75mm hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
Additional Notes for making this with #10 thread:
I worked this bonnet up in #10 crochet thread, and have received a lot of interest from the pictures I shared. Here are the things I modified that you’ll want to be aware of.
For row 23: work FPtr sts instead of FPdc sts so there is room for the ribbon to thread through.
For the bottom (scalloped ruffle): after finishing the row of sc along the bottom that the pattern calls for (I did 60 sc), you’ll turn, and repeat *ch 3, sk 2 sts, sl st* across, then turn, and come back the other way repeating *(4 hdc, sl st) in each ch-3 sp, across* Fasten off and weave in ends
Rosemary Green Baby Bonnet Pattern (US Terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6)
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
Round 4: (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st *(hdc, 2 dc) in next st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Turn your piece over and work this next step across the back side. Don’t forget to turn it back over so the front side is facing you after you end the round.
Round 5: working at the back of the piece behind the petals you just made, sl st into back of first petal, ch 3, sl st into back of next petal *ch 3, sl st into back of next petal; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 ch 3 sps)
Round 6: sl st into first ch-3 s, (hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sl st), *sl st into next ch-3 sp (hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sl st); repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Round 7: ch 1, dc in first st, The rest of the stitches for this round will be work as back post sts: *BPdc around hdc, BPhdc around next 2 dc, BPsc around next 2 tr, BPhdc around next 2 dc, BPdc around hdc, dc in sl st; repeat from * around omitting dc in sl st on final repeat, join with sl st to first dc. (54)
Round 8: sl st into next st, ch 4 (counts as first tr st), dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sl st in next st *hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, tr in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around. When there are 4 sts left in the round: hdc, dc in next 2 sts, tr in last st, join with sl st to top of ch-4. (54)
Round 9: ch 1, *BPsc around tr, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts, BPdc around next hdc st, dc in sl st, BPdc around next hdc st, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts, BPsc around, tr; repeat from *around, BPsc around last tr of round, join with sl st to first BPsc.(54)
Gauge check: Circle should measure 3 1/4″ across at this point
Round 10: ch 1, (hdc, dc) in first st, (dc, tr) in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st *(hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (11 petals)
Round 11: ch 1, *BPdc around hdc st, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts , BPsc around next 2 tr sts, BPhdc around next 2 dc sts, BPdc around next hdc, skip sl st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPdc. (88)
You will switch to working in rows now. Row 12 is worked on the right side.
Row 12: sc in next 71 sts, ch 1, turn. (71)
Row 13 (back side): FPsc around each st of row, ch 1, turn. (71)
Row 14: sc in each st across, ch 3 (counts as first stitch of row 15), turn. (71)
Row 15 (back side): sk st, V-stitch in next st, [sk 2 sts, V-stitch in next st] 22 times, when you get to the end of the row: sk st, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (23 V-stitches)
Row 16: sc in first st, 5 dc in first V-st, sc in next V-stitch, *5 dc in next V-stitch, sc in next V-stitch; repeat from * across. You will end with a sc in the top of the ch-3 from prev row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn.(12 shells)
Row 17 (back side): sk 2 sts, *V-stitch in next st at top of shell, sk 2 sts, V-stitch in the sc between the shells, sk 2 sts; repeat from * across, dc in final sc of row, ch 1, turn. (23 V-stitches)
Repeat rows 16-17, 2 more times.
Row 22: 2 sc in first st, sc in each remaining st across, Final sc will be worked in the top of the ch-3 from previous row, ch 3 (counts as first st of row 23), turn. (72)
Row 23 (back side): FPdc around each sc of prev row, ch 1, turn. (72)
Row 24: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (72)
Row 25 (back side): FPsc around each sc from prev row, turn. (72)
Row 26: *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in the next, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * across. (12 shells)
Turn the bonnet and work a row of sc along the entire bottom of bonnet.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
With a ribbon needle, weave length of ribbon through the row of FPdc (row 23).
Coat ends of ribbon with fray check or clear nail polish to prevent fraying.
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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
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Dottie mims says
What size crochet hook do I use if I use sport weight yarn
I have not personally tried this, but you might be able to use a 3mm or 3.25mm hook with sport weight yarn.
When you finish row 11 it says to join to fpst on beginning of row 11 but it was all bpst right??
Yes, that should be a BPdc stitch. I’ve fixed the typo. 😊
Cheryl Stearns says
I, too, was confused on Round 5 and 6. Kirsten explained to put the sl st into the back of one of the DC in the middle of the petals from the previous round, then ch 3, and repeat with the other petals. That helped.
In round 6, I was confused because of the parentheses. I think what happens is–and Kirsten can correct me–you sl st AND do the other sts in the parenthesis into the first ch 3 space. So you would sl st, hdc, 2 dc 2tc, 2dc, hdc, sl st into the first ch 3 sp. Then do the same in each ch 3 space.
The parenthesis had me thinking I sl st in the ch 3 space and then somewhere else try to put the other sts. NOW it makes sense to me! 🙂 Maybe this helps clarify it for others, too.
It sounds like you’ve got it figured out, Cheryl! 🙂
Kaitlin C Lewis says
Would this work for a baby doll?
Yes, it would if the doll were a 0-3 month size. 🙂 You may make it smaller, if needed, by using #10 thread and a finer steel hook than what the design calls for.
Thanks for this beautiful pattern! In the fifth round, your above comment stated to sl st in back of petal. In what part of the petal does the sl st go? My understanding is that a petal consists of the hdc,4dc,hdc. Thanks for your assistance.
You’re welcome you’ll slip stitch into one of the center 2 double crochet in the 4dc grouping. You’re working at the back of the petal so bending the petal forward so you can see the back may help. Once you are finished you should have a series of chains and slip stitches going around the back of the flower. You’ll work the following round’s stitches into those chain spaces from the right side.
I hope that helps!
Jacqueline Marchant says
Hello Kristen…I am on row 5 and I am having trouble following the instructions …could you plz elaborate….help….lol
Hi Jacqueline, what kind of problem are you having? This round is worked on the back side of the flower, so you’ll want to turn it over before you begin. Just make sure you keep working in the same direction, because round 6 will be worked on the right side. 🙂
Anna Moore says
I fastened off the yarn after completing Row 4, then joined with a slip stitch to one of the middle stitches of the petals. This was easier for me because I used a Mohair blend yarn which tends to snag.
Hilde Bilvais says
Would love to crochet it, don’t understand row 4
I’m sorry you’re having trouble. Let me see if I can explain it better. To begin with you’ll be making petals this round. Each petal takes up 2 stitches, and there is a sl st between them. So [hdc, 2 dc] in first stitch, then move to the next stitch, [2 dc, hdc] in that stitch, sl st in the next stitch. The information in the brackets needs to all be worked in one stitch before moving to the next stitch and completing the next set.
Does that make things clearer? 🙂