Pattern – Secret Garden Tote/Market bag

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The Secret Garden tote (or market bag) is full of delicate textures that are suitable for all kinds of summer activities from browsing at the market to soaking up rays at the beach! This would also make a sweet gift for mom (practical *and* pretty–it’s the best of both worlds!). 😉
Instructions for longer or shorter straps are included, as well as suggestions to help you further customize this bag to fit your needs.

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Difficulty:
Easy

Materials Needed:
6mm (J) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
300-400 yards Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn in Hot Pink
scissors
yarn needle/ribbon needle
1.5-2 yards sheer, 7/8″ ribbon
fray check or clear nail polish

Stitches Used:
ch= chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
bsc = backward single crochet, also known as the crab stitch

Additional Terms:
3 dc cluster: dc3tog in the same stitch
Cross stitch: skip stitch, dc in the next, cross back and dc in the stitch you just skipped
3rd loop of hdc: Look at the back of the hdc stitch, and find the loop. Work all stitches for the round in that 3rd loop

Gauge:
13 stitches in 4″

Measurements:
12″ wide x 14″ tall, excluding straps when laid flat

Additional Notes:
To make this bag more secure you could add a liner, or a zipper, attaching it at about round 29.
I’ve included gauge information, however, since this is a lacy bag, it can be worked with a variety of yarn and hook sizes and will still look cute.

Secret Garden Tote / Market Bag
Round 1: ch 31, sc in second ch from hook, and in each stitch across. Once you get to the end of the row, work a second sc in the final stitch, and then work another 30 sc on the other side. Put one sc in the very end of the row, then join with sl st to first sc (62)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in next 30 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 30 stitches, 2 sc in the next, join with sl st to first sc (64)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in next 28 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in the next, 2 sc in the next, sc in the next 29 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in the next, 2 sc in the next, sc in next. Join with sl st to first sc (68)
Round 4: ch 1, sc in next 28 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 30 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 2
stitches. Join with sl st to first sc (72)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in next 28 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 31 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 3 stitches. Join with sl st to first sc (76)
Round 6: ch 1, sc in next 28 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 32 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 4 stitches. Join with sl st to first sc (80)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in next 28 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 33 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next, sc in next 5 stitches. Join with sl st to first sc (84)

Your piece should measure 12″ long by 3 3/4″ wide at this point. This will be the bottom of the bag.

Round 8: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc (84)
Round 9: ch 1, skip first stitch, dc in the next, cross back and dc in the stitch you just skipped *skip stitch, dc in the next, cross back and dc in the stitch you just skipped* Join with sl st to first dc (84)
Round 10: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc (84)
Round 11: ch 1, 3 dc cluster in first stitch, ch 1, skip stitch *3 dc cluster in next stitch, ch 1, skip stitch* Join with sl st to first 3 dc cluster (42 3 dc cluster, 42 ch 2 spaces)
Round 12: ch 1, 2 sc in each ch 1 space. Join with sl st to first sc (84)
Round 13: skip stitch, 4 dc in the next, skip stitch, sl st in the next *skip stitch, 4 dc in the next, skip stitch, sl st in the next* (21 shells)
Round 14: sl st to top of first shell, ch 3, *sl st between the second and third dc of 4 dc shell (center), ch 3* Join with sl st to first ch (21 ch 3 spaces)
Round 15: ch 1, 4 sc in each ch 3 space. Join with sl st to first sc (84)

Repeat rounds 9-15 2 more times, or until your tote is the height you desire, then continue with the part where the ribbon will go.
Note: If you don’t want a spot for a ribbon, you can skip rounds 27-30, and go straight to round 31. This will shorten your tote by about 1″

Round 27: ch 1, hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first hdc (84)
Round 28: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, dc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first dc (84)
Round 29: ch 1, hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first hdc (84)
Round 30: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc (84)

Note: Your join should be right about in the middle of the side of the tote. When you thread your ribbon through, you’ll tie the bow over this seam to cover it.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends

Count forward 21 stitches from join, and attach yarn (you should be at one end of the tote).

Round 31: ch 1, sc in next 14 stitches, ch 30 for a short handle/strap, 60 for a medium handle/strap, or 120 for size small, cross-body straps (this number can actually be any length you want as stitch counts after this row are unimportant), skip 14 stitches, sc in next 28 stitches, ch 30 (60, or 120), skip 14 stitches, sc in next 14. Join with sl st to first sc
Rounds 32-36: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Note: If you want thicker straps, feel free to do another round
Round 37: ch 1, bsc (crab stitch) in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first bsc (crab  stitch)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Thread ribbon through round 28. Tie a bow, cut ends of bow at a 45 degree angle, coat ends with fray check or clear nail polish.

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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, or use additional images. Thank you!

The Secret Garden Tote was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows and other events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that it not be used commercially to produce millions of copies.

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