The Secret Garden tote, or market bag is full of delicate textures that are suitable for all kinds of summer activities from browsing at the market to soaking up rays at the beach! Instructions for longer or shorter straps are included, as well as suggestions to help you further customize this bag to fit your needs. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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This would make a cute tote for a bride, or sweet gift for mom. Practical *and* pretty–it’s the best of both worlds! 😊
This is an updated and improved version of my original market bag pattern from 2017. In that pattern I used a larger hook, but I noticed that my handle strap was a bit more stretchy than I would have liked, so this new version has the handle that I’m adding to all my bags now. It’s designed to be sturdier and resist stretching, and so far I’m very pleased with how it’s held up. It does take a little more time to make and there are some more steps, which is why I’ve raised the skill level from “easy” to “intermediate”.
The other thing I changed on this design is the way the top of the bag looks. I love ruffles and little feminine touches, and the scalloped top edge of this tote bag totally makes it for me! That coupled with the cute little flower buttons makes this bag playful, but still suited for grown-ups. It’s possible to omit that round and add a simple crab stitch edging instead if you’d like a few less frills.
The updated version of the tote bag pattern is written in 2 sizes: the smaller size you see modeled here, and a slightly larger version. The smaller bag holds a magazine and some small skeins or hanks of yarn. You could even fit a tablet in there with them! The larger version is closer in width to the original bag design (It’s just a tiny bit wider), and you could easily add more rounds of the lacy stitch pattern to make it even taller. I’ve included a note in the pattern that explains how to do that.
The bottom of the updated tote is worked flat, as before, and you can put a piece of plastic canvas in if you want it to stay that way. I have not added it to this bag, but because I used somewhat tighter stitches it doesn’t sag a whole lot. You can see it better in the following picture:
I hope you find this crochet bag pattern useful and that it will become a favorite when you need something pretty, yet casual to carry your belongings around in.
Let’s get started!
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Difficulty:
- Intermediate
Materials Needed:
- 4mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge (bag body)
- 3mm hook (handles)
- 360, 450 yds #4 Lily Sugar ‘n Cream yarn in Ecru or color of your choice for bag, 75 yds in Jute, or color of your choice for handles.
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- 2 yds 4.5mm natural cotton cord for center of bag handles
- 8 small flower buttons per bag
- Sewing needle and thread
- (Optional): stiff plastic sheet (plastic canvas works as do those clear cutting boards) to reinforce bottom of bag.
Stitches Used (US Terms):
- ch= chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- BPsc = back post single crochet
- rsc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Additional Terms:
- hdc in the 3rd loop = Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back*, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop.
- 3dc cluster: YO, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops (1st stitch of cluster made), YO, insert hook into same st, pull up a loop, YO draw through 2 loops (2nd st of cluster made), YO, insert hook into same st, pull up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops (3rd st of cluster made), YO, draw through all loops on hook.
- Cross Stitch = sk st, dc in next st, cross over st just made, dc in skipped st.
- sp/sps = space/spaces
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- prev = previous
Gauge:
- 16 sc in 4”, Gauge is not especially important though.
Measurements:
- Small: 10 1/2″ tall by 11″ wide, excluding handle
- Medium: 10 1/2″ tall by 13″ wide, excluding handle
Additional Notes:
- Ch-1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
- Unless otherwise indicated new rounds will begin in same st as join.
- Use moderately tight tension working this project to minimize stretching. Compression gloves and ergonomic hooks may make this easier on your joints.
- I Love This Cotton will not make a good substitute in this project. That yarn is softer and floppier than the Lily Sugar n Cream and as a result your project will be smaller and stretch out more easily.
Secret Garden Tote Bag (US Terms):
Round 1: ch 31 [39], 3 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 28 [36] sts, 3 sc in final st, continue working around end of chain and up other side, sc in next 28 [36] sts, join with sl st to first sc. (62 [78])
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 28 [36] sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 28 [36] sts, join with sl st to first sc. (68 [84])
Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts, sc in next 28 [36] sts, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts, sc in next 28 [36] sts, join with sl st to first sc. (80 [96])
Depending on whether you are making the small or medium sized bag round 4 will be worked differently:
Round 4 (small bag): ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 30 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 4 (medium bag): ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts, sc in next 42 sts, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts, sc in next 39 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (108)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Gauge check: your piece should measure 9 1/2” long (small), or 11 1/2” long (medium) by 2 1/2” wide.
Round 6: ch 1, BPsc in each st around, join with sl st to first BPc. (84, 108)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Round 8: ch 1, *sk st, dc in next st, cross back and dc in unworked st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. (84, 108)
Round 9: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Round 10: ch 1, 3dc cluster in first st, ch 1, sk st, *3 dc cluster in next st, ch 1, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3 dc cluster. (42, 54 3dc clusters, 42, 54 ch-1 sps)
Round 11: ch 1, 2 sc in each ch 1 sp, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Round 12: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (21, 27 shells)
Round 13: sl st up the next 2 dc sts to top of shell, sl st between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell, *ch 3, sl st between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell; repeat from * around, join with sl st to ch at top of first shell (27 ch-3 sps)
Round 14: ch 1, *4 sc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Repeat rows 8-14 2 more times you may repeat this section a 3rd time if you want a taller bag. You will need more yarn than the pattern calls for if you decide to do this though.
Round 29: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (84, 108)
Round 30: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Round 31: ch 1, 3dc cluster in first st, ch 1, sk st, *3 dc cluster in next st, ch 1, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3 dc cluster. (42, 54 3dc clusters, 42, 54 ch-1 sps)
Round 32: ch 1, 2 hdc in each ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first hdc. (84, 108)
Round 33: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84, 108)
Round 34: sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (21, 27 shells)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Bag Straps (make 2)
This makes a nice handbag sized strap for the bag. It will not fit over your shoulder unless you are very petite, but the strap is easy to adjust. Simply make your chain as long as you would like and then follow the instructions below. Your stitch counts will be different but the idea is exactly the same. Keep in mind that you will want to use moderately tight stitching for the handle, and your strap will shrink up a bit as you add the crab stitch edging. These w things will help your strap not to stretch out as bad in the long-run.
You may choose to make the straps the same color as your tote bag, or you can use a different color of cotton, such as “Jute”.
With 3mm hook,
Ch 101,
Round 1: 3 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 98 sts, 3 sc in final st of row, continue working around end of chain and up other side, sc in next 98 sts, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 98 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 98 sts, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts, sc in next 98 sts, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts, sc in next 98 sts, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 4: rsc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (220)
Fasten off.
Measure 5” from both ends of shoulder strap. In a little bit you will sew these ends flat to the bag with the tails left over from the beginning and ending of round 5.
Cut length of 4.5mm cotton rope approximately 2-3″ longer than the remaining strap (you will trim off the excess later). This rope will lay at the center of your strap giving it some extra durability and shape. I do not recommend crocheting this style of strap without putting the rope through the center because the straps will be more prone to growing with use.
Tie off one end tightly with piece of heavy-duty thread or twine. You’ll whip the other end once you know exactly how long the center of your rounded strap will be. If you’re not sure how to do this, I have a step-by-step tutorial on how to “whip” the end of a cotton rope over here. Coat ends of rope with fray check if you wish.
Round 5: leaving 18” tail for sewing strap to bag, measure 5″ from end of strap (approximately 25 sts), with wrong-side showing, sl st between rounds 3 and 4 continuing around end of strap and up the other side the same distance.
Place the rope in the center of the strap and fold the strap over the rope. Continue where you left off by slip stitching both sides of the strap together with a new piece of yarn (the rope should be in the center). This is the same technique I used on the Written on My Heart cross-body bag. You can see some more detailed pictures of that process over here.
Once you are 5” (approximately 25 sts) from other end of strap stop, stop working through both layers of the strap and instead continue slip stitching through only 1 layer of the strap working around the end and up to the other side the same distance.
You can now trim your rope so it fits neatly in the center of your strap and whip the other end so it doesn’t fray out.
Fasten off, leaving 18” tail, and run it through the center of the end of the rope to help to prevent the strap from growing in length as you use the bag. Sew strap to bag with remaining tail. Repeat this step with the tail at the other end of the strap.
Weave in all remaining ends.
Feel free to add a cloth lining and zipper to your bag if you wish.
Looking for the original version of the tote bag? Here it is!
In this version the bag and the strap are worked as one piece. No extra sewing required! This was my very first bag pattern and there are some parts that are a little rough. I plan to go through and do some minor updates to this version soon.
Difficulty:
Easy
Materials Needed:
6mm (J) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
380-400 yards Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn in color of your choice
Scissors
Yarn needle/ribbon needle
1.5-2 yards sheer, 7/8″ ribbon
fray check or clear nail polish
Stitches Used:
ch= chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
rsc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Additional Terms:
3-dc cluster: dc3tog in the same stitch
Cross stitch: skip stitch, dc in the next, cross back and dc in the stitch you just skipped
3rd loop of hdc: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V” (which is the yarn over from when you made the stitch), this is called the 3rd loop. Work all stitches for the round in that 3rd loop.
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
Gauge:
13 stitches in 4″ 15 sc in 4″
Measurements:
12″ wide x 14″ tall, excluding straps when laid flat
Additional Notes:
-ch-1 at beginning of round does not count as a st.
-To make this bag more secure you could add a liner, or a zipper, attaching it at about round 29.
-I’ve included gauge information, however, since this is a lacy bag, it can be worked with a variety of yarn and hook sizes and will still look cute.
-There is a crochet-a-long for the original version of this tote bag with step-by-step pictures over here.
Original Secret Garden Tote / Market Bag Pattern (US Terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Round 1: ch 31, sc in second ch from hook, and in each st across. Once you get to the end of the row, work a second sc in the final st, then work another 30 sc on the other side. Put one sc in the very end of the row, join with sl st to first sc. (62)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in next 30 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 30 sts, 2 sc in next st, join with sl st to first sc. (64)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 29 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, join with sl st to first sc. (68)
Round 4: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 30 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 31 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (76)
Round 6: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 32 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (80)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Your piece should measure 12″ long by 3 3/4″ wide at this point. This will be the bottom of the bag.
Round 8: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 9: ch 1, *cross stitch across next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. (84)
Round 10: ch 1, sc in each sts around, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 11: ch 1, 3-dc cluster in first st, ch 1, sk st, *3-dc cluster in next st, ch 1, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3-dc cluster (42 3-dc cluster, 42 ch-1 sps)
Round 12: ch 1, 2 sc in each ch-1 sp, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 13: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (21 4-dc shells)
Round 14: sl st to top of first shell, ch 3, *sl st between second and third dc of 4-dc shell (center), ch 3; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first ch (21 ch-3 sps)
Round 15: ch 1, *4 sc in ch-3 sp; repeat from* around, join with sl st to first sc (84)
Repeat rounds 9-15 2 more times, or until your tote is the height you desire, then continue with the band where the ribbon will go. Note: If you don’t want a spot for a ribbon, you can skip rounds 27-30, and go straight to round 31. This will shorten your tote by about 1″
Round 27: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (84)
Round 28: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (84)
Round 29: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (84)
Round 30: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Your join should be right about in the middle of the side of the tote. When you thread your ribbon through, you’ll tie the bow over this seam to cover it.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Count forward 21 sts from join, and attach yarn (you should be at one end of the tote).
Round 31: ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, ch 30 for a short handle/strap, 60 for a medium handle/strap, or 120 for size small, cross-body straps (this number can actually be any length you want as stitch counts after this row are unimportant), sk 14 sts, sc in next 28 sts, ch 30 (60, or 120), sk 14 sts, sc in next 14 sts, join with sl st to first sc
Rounds 32-36: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.
Note: If you want thicker straps, feel free to do another round
Round 37: ch 1, rsc (crab stitch) in each st around, join with sl st to first rsc (crab stitch).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Thread ribbon through round 28. Tie a bow, cut ends of bow at a 45 degree angle, coat ends with fray check or clear nail polish.
.sdg.
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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
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