The Secret Garden tote, or market bag is full of delicate textures that are suitable for all kinds of summer activities from browsing at the market to soaking up rays at the beach! Instructions for longer or shorter straps are included, as well as suggestions to help you further customize this bag to fit your needs. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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This would also make a sweet gift for mom. Practical *and* pretty–it’s the best of both worlds! 😊
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Difficulty:
Easy
Materials Needed:
6mm (J) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
380-400 yards Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn in “Hot Pink” or color of your choice
scissors
yarn needle/ribbon needle
1.5-2 yards sheer, 7/8″ ribbon
fray check or clear nail polish
Stitches Used:
ch= chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
rsc = reverse single crochet, also known as the crab stitch
Additional Terms:
3-dc cluster: dc3tog in the same stitch
Cross stitch: skip stitch, dc in the next, cross back and dc in the stitch you just skipped
3rd loop of hdc: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V” (which is the yarn over from when you made the stitch), this is called the 3rd loop. Work all stitches for the round in that 3rd loop.
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
Gauge:
13 stitches in 4″
Measurements:
12″ wide x 14″ tall, excluding straps when laid flat
Additional Notes:
-ch-1 at beginning of round does not count as a st.
-To make this bag more secure you could add a liner, or a zipper, attaching it at about round 29.
-I’ve included gauge information, however, since this is a lacy bag, it can be worked with a variety of yarn and hook sizes and will still look cute.
Secret Garden Tote / Market Bag Pattern (US Terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Round 1: ch 31, sc in second ch from hook, and in each st across. Once you get to the end of the row, work a second sc in the final st, then work another 30 sc on the other side. Put one sc in the very end of the row, join with sl st to first sc. (62)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in next 30 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 30 sts, 2 sc in next st, join with sl st to first sc. (64)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 29 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, join with sl st to first sc. (68)
Round 4: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 30 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 31 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (76)
Round 6: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 32 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (80)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Your piece should measure 12″ long by 3 3/4″ wide at this point. This will be the bottom of the bag.
Round 8: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 9: ch 1, *cross stitch across next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. (84)
Round 10: ch 1, sc in each sts around, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 11: ch 1, 3-dc cluster in first st, ch 1, sk st, *3-dc cluster in next st, ch 1, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3-dc cluster (42 3-dc cluster, 42 ch-1 sps)
Round 12: ch 1, 2 sc in each ch-1 sp, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Round 13: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (21 4-dc shells)
Round 14: sl st to top of first shell, ch 3, *sl st between second and third dc of 4-dc shell (center), ch 3; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first ch (21 ch-3 sps)
Round 15: ch 1, *4 sc in ch-3 sp; repeat from* around, join with sl st to first sc (84)
Repeat rounds 9-15 2 more times, or until your tote is the height you desire, then continue with the band where the ribbon will go. Note: If you don’t want a spot for a ribbon, you can skip rounds 27-30, and go straight to round 31. This will shorten your tote by about 1″
Round 27: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (84)
Round 28: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (84)
Round 29: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (84)
Round 30: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (84)
Your join should be right about in the middle of the side of the tote. When you thread your ribbon through, you’ll tie the bow over this seam to cover it.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Count forward 21 sts from join, and attach yarn (you should be at one end of the tote).
Round 31: ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, ch 30 for a short handle/strap, 60 for a medium handle/strap, or 120 for size small, cross-body straps (this number can actually be any length you want as stitch counts after this row are unimportant), sk 14 sts, sc in next 28 sts, ch 30 (60, or 120), sk 14 sts, sc in next 14 sts, join with sl st to first sc
Rounds 32-36: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.
Note: If you want thicker straps, feel free to do another round
Round 37: ch 1, rsc (crab stitch) in each st around, join with sl st to first rsc (crab stitch).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Thread ribbon through round 28. Tie a bow, cut ends of bow at a 45 degree angle, coat ends with fray check or clear nail polish.
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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
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Hai!
Absolutely love your designs! I started crocheting recently due to having to stay home from my epilepsy and this has def helped me a lot! Quick question on round 14. It says sl st between 2nd and third dc. Do I do it on the third? I don’t really see any space technically between the 2.
Also one more thing. Sorry to bother you ! I saw on some of your designs at the end of a round it’ll say sl st to last dc(sc etc..) then the next round begins with 1 dc(sc etc) do I do the first of next round in where I placed the last sl st or move into the next stitch. I think some it says same st but some it doesn’t. Just wasn’t sure. Ty so much
Hi Jewels,
When it says to sl st between thev2nd and 3rf dc you’ll literally do that. Poke your hook between the posts of those 2 stitches and make a slip stitch. 😊
Usually you’ll start your first stitch of the new round in the same stitch you joined in. I hope this helps!
Hello Mary:
Just finished making this bag because where I live they are going to start charging in certain retail stores for plastic bags. I ran across your design and wanted to say it is well written as well as beautiful. I have been crocheting for many years and even enjoy less challenging patterns. One thing I wanted to mention is that the crab stitch edging certainly give the handles “strength.” But I noticed that doing just one side of the handle still left it a little limp. So, I attached the yarn and crab stitched the outside of the handle as well. Not only do they match now, but the handles are very sturdy. Thanks again for a great pattern.
I’m glad you enjoyed the bag pattern! 😊
Do you have video tutorial in this? I cant uderstand some rows as m new to crochet but i want to make one for me. Thanks in advance.
Hi Mary, I don’t have a video tutorial for this yet, but if you start by reading each instruction piece (between the commas), and working those one at a time, it might make more sense. Is there a particular row or stitch you’re having trouble with?