This cute, textured crochet beanie hat will look just as good on men as it does on women! The diamond stitch adds a double layer of warmth to this hat, and will keep you warm this winter. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
I’ve included instructions at the bottom of the page for making your own faux fur pom-pom, or you can leave the hat plain.
Make it a set: the Snow Country Super Scarf is available over here.
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(Optional) small amount of faux fur material for pom-pom
(Optional) pom-pom maker
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
hdc = half-double crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog = front post treble crochet 2 together
reverse sc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
st/sts = stitch/stitches
hdc in the 3rd loop = Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop.
14 dc stitches in 4″
8.5” tall and 10.5″ wide. It should fit an adult.
-FPtr2tog counts as a stitch. Don’t forget to skip that spot in your round when making the stitch
-If you want a smaller hat for a child try going down a hook size. If you want a hat that will fit a toddler try going down a hook size from what is listed, and use a #3 yarn. I have not personally tested these options.
Snow Country Beanie Pattern (US Terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Round 1: working in magic circle, [sc, 5 dc] 4 times, join with sl st to first sc. (4 5-dc shells, 4 sc)
Your piece will take on a square appearance after completing this round. Don’t be alarmed–this hat will change shape many times over the course of the next few rounds, and will not start to look circular until after finishing a couple rounds with no increases.
Round 2: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the 3rd stitch of your 5-dc shell), sk 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in sc, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (4 split shells, 4 sc)
Round 3: sl st over 1 st, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the center st of split shell), sk st, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in sc, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 5-dc shells, 8 sc)
Round 4: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 shells, 8 sc)
Round 5: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the 3rd stitch of your 5-dc shell), sk 2 sts, work (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in sc, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 6: sl st over 1 st, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the center st of split shell), sk st, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 5-dc shells)
Rounds 7-10: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 5-dc shells)
**Your hat should measure at least 10” from side to side, after you finish this top part of the hat. From the crown of the hat to where the shells end, should measure at least 5”**
Round 11: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (72)
Round 12: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 13: ch 1, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 14: ch 1, FPtr around the 2nd sc of round 12, sc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in round 12 that you just worked the first FPtr around, move forward 3 sts in round 12 and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current round, *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in round 12 that you put the last leg of the previous FPtr2tog, skip forward 3 sts in round 12, and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current round; repeat from * across, When you get to the last stitch in your round, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook into last st of round, YO, and pull through all remaining loops, join with sl st to first FPtr. (72)
Round 15: ch 1, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next st, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around the top of the first AND last FPtr in round 14 (this will pull them together to look like they are one stitch), put the second leg around the next FPtr2tog from round 14. *sc in each of the next 3 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around the top of the FPtr2tog in round 14 that you just came off of, place the second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next FPtr2tog from round 14; repeat from * around, (Note: The final leg of the final FPtr2tog will be worked around the same stitches as the first leg of the first FPtr2tog in the round), sc in final st of round, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 17: ch 1, dc in same st as join and each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 18: ch 1, FPtr around next post stitch of round 16, sc in next 3 sts. FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in round 16 that you just did the first FPtr around, move forward 3 stitches in round 16 and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next post stitch, sc in next 3 sts of current round *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in round 16 that you put the last leg of the previous FPtr2tog, skip forward 3 sts in round 16, and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next post stitch, sc in next 3 sts of current round; repeat from * around, when you get to the last stitch in your round, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook through that last stitch, YO, and pull up a loop, insert your hook under the first FPtr, and then pull that loop through all remaining loops. This will join the round. (72)
Round 19: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (72)
Round 20: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Choose which ending you want:
Crab Stitch edging:
Rounds 21-23: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 24: crab stitch or reverse sc in each stitch around.Fasten off, and weave in ends.OR
Ribbed band edging:
Rounds 21-22: ch 1, FPhdc around first st, BPhdc around next st, join with sl st to first FPhdc. (72)
Round 23: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Making the faux fur pompom:
¼ yard Luxury Faux Wolf Fur Fabric material – Grey
Scissors or an X-ACTO knife
3 ft Button Thread/crochet thread
Polyester stuffing (fiber fill)
Faux Fur Pom-pom Instructions:
- Trace a circle around a small bowl or cup using a marker, on the back side of the fabric. My circle was 5″ across.
- Cut out the circle. Only cut the fabric backing–not the fur itself!
- With your needle and thread, sew a loose running stitch near the edge of the circle
- Take a small amount of polyester stuffing and put it in the middle of the circle.
- Tug on the ends of the thread to cinch the circle into a ball. It should be snug so the fiber fill doesn’t come out.
- Tie off securely, and then sew the pom-pom to your beanie.
Use yarn and a large pom-pom maker instead.
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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
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To make the magic circle how many stitches should I have, 4, 5 or 6. I’m confused. Your instructions for the magic circle are clear but you don’t state how many sts to do for the beanie.
The magic circle is just a slip knot that is partially completed. You then work the stitches from round 1 into that. You should have 4 5-dc shells, and 4 sc stitches in the circle once the first round is completed. Afteryou you cinch the magic circle up then the shells will actually start to look like shells. 😊 I hope that helps!
Would this hat work up to be the right size if I use Caron Simply Soft yarn or Yarn Bee Soft Secret yarn? They both are listed as worsted (a thickness of 4) but they are actually softer and a little thinner than normal worsted straight. They aren’t as thin as fingering or baby yarn though.
Since they are thinner than the yarn I recommend, your hat would probably come out a bit smaller and would most likely fit a child instead of an adult. You could try going up a hook size or two, but then the hat may be too “thin” looking as there would be more space between the stitches.
Patti Finck says
Thank you for sharing this beanie pattern. I just finished the beanie and it turned out perfect! The directions were great. I am an experienced crocheter, so I found the directions to be clear and accurate. I also appreciate the directions for the pom pom. Thank you again!
You’re welcome, Patti! I’m glad you are pleased with your beanie! 😊
This is a gorgeous pattern, I love it! Would you say it can work with a chunky yarn, because that is currently what I have (I have a knack for every time accidentally buying the wrong weight of yarn!) and I do crochet quite tightly.
I’m glad you like the pattern! You could try using chunky yarn if you crochet very tightly, but the hat may turn out pretty stiff and might not be so comfortable to wear. 😅
Je sais comment faire un cercle magique. Par contre, je ne comprend pas comme faire votre cercle magique avec les mailles serrées et les brides. Je fais une maille serrées et 5 brides, une maille serrée et 5 brides. Je répète cela et ça va me faire des coquilles quand je vais serrer. Merci de m’aider.
The shell stitches are worked in the magic circle the same as single crochet and double crochet stitches would be on other crochet patterns. The center, top of your hat will need to have the tail woven in to close the hole completely because having that many shells worked at the center makes things it is very bulky. I hope this helps you understand the instructions better! 🙂
Running the risk of looking slightly stupid… how do I form the circle prior to row 1 if you know what I mean? Sorry you may have made it clear and I’m over looking it, I’m just stumped…. I’d appreciate your guidance, thank you in advance : )
I put together a picture tutorial for how to make the magic circle right here: https://kirstenhollowaydesigns.com/2021/06/how-to-crochet-the-magic-ring-easy-picture-tutorial.html
I hope that helps! 😊
I looooove this pattern, thank you Kirsten!
You’re welcome! 😊
You gave two options for the finish. Which one do you have pictured?
The dark blue hat is using the ribbed brim. 😊
I am in Round 14 but got confused on the last part of round would love some help
Take a look at this video and it may help you with the Diamond stitch: https://youtu.be/nUl5SLtNRDo Pay special attention to how she ends the row at about the 5 minute mark. 😊
could you post a link to where you had your leather tag designed, please? Thank you.
I ordered my tags through All This Wood on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AllThisWood 😊
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly:).
On round 12 it says : Round 12: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.
Are you using the front third loop or the back third loop?
It’s the back 3rd loop so that the top of the stitch bends towards the outside of the hat and creates a ridge. 🙂
Do you have matching pattern for adult mittens?
I do not have a mitten pattern at this point.
Where did you get your tag for the hat? So cute.
I picked mine up at All This Wood on Etsy. They have a wide variety of tags available for customization. 😁
Hello, just came across your Pinterest page today. So many beautiful projects. It’s coming up to winter, and I’d like to make myself another beanie in white. But I find that most beanie patterns are too short, and don’t cover/protect my ears. I measured, and 8.5” wouldn’t be long enough for my liking. I would like to make it an inch longer. Where would you recommend adding rows, to do this?
This pattern is pretty versatile as far as length goes. You can either add 1-2 more rounds of shells (round 10) before moving on to the diamond stitch section, or you can repeat a couple more rounds of the diamond stitch if you understand how to work it. I hope that helps! 🙂
June Vannoy says
I am experienced at crochet, but I cannot figure out how to get 12 shells in Row 6. Can you help me? Thanks
You will have 8 regular shells and 4 split shells from round 5 which you will be working in on round 6 to create the 12 shells called for. Make sure you are working a sc in the 2nd dc of the split shell (from round 5) and working a normal shell in the ch-2 sp between. I hope that helps! If you have more questions feel free to join my Facebook group and share pictures of what’s going on. That may make it easier to answer your questions. 🙂 https://www.facebook.com/groups/KirstenHollowayDesigns
On row 14 I’m ending with about 10 fewer stitches than the 72. I’ve tried it a couple times and can’t seem to get the 72.
If your stitch count on the previous round is correct, make sure you are skipping only one stitch for the FPtr2tog to sit before you make the 3 single crochet stitches between. You may want to place a stitch marker where the FPtr2tog should be to help. 🙂
Round 14 doesn’t tell you to skip a stitch when sc the 3. It’s really confusing to have to come to the comments to figure that out. Can you fix the pattern instructions?
I’m sorry you missed that note about the FPtr2tog counting as a stitch! It is listed in the “Additional Notes” section before the pattern begins. 😊
Mary Pilgrim says
Is there a video that I can watch to crochet the hat
I’m sorry, there is not a video at this time.
Tricia Duliban says
I can’t figure out why for the life of me I keep ending up with 16 shells on row 6. I’ve tried repeatedly and something just isn’t clicking for me.
Check round 5 to make sure you only have 4 split shells (the increases). That may be where your trouble is coming from.
I have 4 split shells and I still get more than 12 5 DC shells. What am I doing wrong? Can you please help me
It might help to take the pattern 1 comma at a time and make sure you aren’t more split shells than you should in round 5. In round 6 each split shell should have 3 dc stitches, a ch-1 sp, and 3 more dc stitches. You will work a sc into the 2nd out of the 3 stitches on the irst half of the split shell, crochet a 5dc shell in the ch-1 sp that is at the center of the split shell, and then sc in the 2nd out of the 3 dc on the other half of the split shell.
I hope that helps!
How many split shells should I have in round 5
You should have 4 split shells and 4 regular shells. They will alternate. 😊
All my other rounds are right but I am still getting 16 shells instead of 12 in round 6 undid project 5 times and still the same result
It sounds like you are increasing too many times. You should end up with 8 regular shells + 4 shells where the split shells were for a total of 12. If you are a member of my Facebook group it may be helpful to share pictures of what you are getting so we can help solve the problem. 😊
But I have 4 split shells and 4 regular shells and I am following the pattern one comma at a time and I still get the same result I am even using stitch markers so I won’t get confused
I just worked up a sample using these instructions and everything came out according to the pattern. I’m wondering if in some places you are not skipping enough stitches between your shells. This round has you skipping 1 stitch sometimes and other times you’ll be skipping 2 stitches between your shells. A rule of thumb is that shells should only be made in the sc stitches and in the ch-1 sps–nowhere else. Your piece should look somewhat square when you finish this round. If you join my Facebook group (link is at the bottom of this post) I can share pictures of this round and the previous one so you can better see what’s going on. 😊
Thank you I figured out what was wrong. Everything is going smoothly I am in Round 12 right now
Wonderful! I’m so glad to hear you got things figured out! 😁
This pattern is for adults size?
Can we find it also for kids and babies?
This is only an adult sized beanie pattern. You are welcome to try using a smaller crochet hook and see if it will fit a child though. 🙂
Sujatha Mohan says
Thank you so much for this pattern. I’m a beginner but managed to complete the scarf and the beanie. Your explanation was really good.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you enjoyed it, Sujatha!
In round 2 how do you get 4 dc
That should be sc, not dc. Each shell has a sc between it. I’ve fixed the typo. 😊
Where is the scarf pattern?
Lisa, the scarf pattern is linked near the top of the post, right where it says “Make it a set:”. 🙂
Shelley Marie Windsor says
I purchased the pattern for this hat. Is there a video?
No, only the written pattern is available.