Snow Country Ski Beanie {Free Crochet Hat Pattern}

5mm (H) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge

200-225 yards of Red Heart Super Saver in the color of your choice, or try Red Heart Heatwave in “Ocean” for extra warmth

scissors
(Optional) small amount of faux fur material for pom-pom
(Optional) pom-pom maker

Stitches Used:
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
hdc = half-double crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog = front post treble crochet 2 together
reverse sc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
st/sts = stitch/stitches

Gauge:
14 dc stitches in 4″

Measurements:
8.5” tall  and 10.5″ wide. It should fit an adult.

-To work this pattern you must be familiar with the Diamond Stitch, the Shell Stitch, and the Reverse Single Crochet, or Crab Stitch. Click on the links to view some excellent tutorials from Moogly, and Hopeful Honey on how to work these stitches.
-FPtr2tog counts as a stitch. Don’t forget to skip that spot in your round when making the stitch
-If you want a smaller hat for a child try going down a hook size. If you want a hat that will fit a toddler try going down a hook size from what is listed, and use a #3 yarn. I have not personally tested these options.

Round 1: working in magic circle, [sc, 5 dc] 4 times, join with sl st to first sc. (4 5-dc shells, 4 sc)

Your piece will take on a square appearance after completing this round. Don’t be alarmed–this hat will change shape many times over the course of the next few rounds, and will not start to look circular until after finishing a couple rounds with no increases.

Round 2: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the 3rd stitch of your 5-dc shell), sk 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in sc, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (4 split shells, 4 sc)
Round 3: sl st over 1 st, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the center st of split shell), sk st, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in sc, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 5-dc shells, 8 sc)
Round 4: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 shells, 8 sc)
Round 5: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the 3rd stitch of your 5-dc shell), sk 2 sts, work (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in sc, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 6: sl st over 1 st, ch 1, *sc in next st (this will be the center st of split shell), sk st, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 5-dc shells)
Rounds 7-10: sl st over 2 sts to top of first shell, ch 1, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 5-dc shells)

**Your hat should measure at least 10” from side to side, after you finish this top part of the hat. From the crown of the hat to where the shells end, should measure at least 5”**

Round 11: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (72)
Round 12: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 13: ch 1, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 14: ch 1, FPtr around the 2nd sc of round 12, sc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in round 12 that you just worked the first FPtr around, move forward 3 sts in round 12 and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current round, *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in round 12 that you put the last leg of the previous FPtr2tog, skip forward 3 sts in round 12, and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current round; repeat from * across, When you get to the last stitch in your round, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook into last st of round, YO, and pull through all remaining loops, join with sl st to first FPtr. (72)
Round 15: ch 1, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next st, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around the top of the first AND last FPtr in round 14 (this will pull them together to look like they are one stitch), put the second leg around the next FPtr2tog from round 14. *sc in each of the next 3 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around the top of the FPtr2tog in round 14 that you just came off of, place the second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next FPtr2tog from round 14; repeat from * around, (Note: The final leg of the final FPtr2tog will be worked around the same stitches as the first leg of the first FPtr2tog in the round), sc in final st of round, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 17: ch 1, dc in same st as join and each st around, join with sl st to first dc. (72)
Round 18: ch 1, FPtr around next post stitch of round 16, sc in next 3 sts. FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in round 16 that you just did the first FPtr around, move forward 3 stitches in round 16 and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next post stitch, sc in next 3 sts of current round *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in round 16 that you put the last leg of the previous FPtr2tog, skip forward 3 sts in round 16, and place second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next post stitch, sc in next 3 sts of current round; repeat from * around, when you get to the last stitch in your round, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook through that last stitch, YO, and pull up a loop, insert your hook under the first FPtr, and then pull that loop through all remaining loops. This will join the round. (72)
Round 19: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (72)
Round 20: ch 1, working all sts of round in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)

Choose which ending you want:

Crab Stitch edging:
Rounds 21-23: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 24: crab stitch or reverse sc in each stitch around.Fasten off, and weave in ends.OR

Ribbed band edging:
Rounds 21-22: ch 1, FPhdc around first st, BPhdc around next st, join with sl st to first FPhdc. (72)
Round 23: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Making the faux fur pompom:

Materials Needed:
¼ yard Luxury Faux Wolf Fur Fabric material – Grey
Scissors or an X-ACTO knife
Marker
3 ft Button Thread/crochet thread
Sewing needle
Polyester stuffing (fiber fill)

Faux Fur Pom-pom Instructions: 

1. Trace a circle around a small bowl or cup using a marker, on the back side of the fabric. My circle was 5″ across.
2. Cut out the circle. Only cut the fabric backing–not the fur itself!
3. With your needle and thread, sew a loose running stitch near the edge of the circle
4. Take a small amount of polyester stuffing and put it in the middle of the circle.
5. Tug on the ends of the thread to cinch the circle into a ball. It should be snug so the fiber fill doesn’t come out.
6. Tie off securely, and then sew the pom-pom to your beanie.

Use yarn and a large pom-pom maker instead.