This beautiful and unique Thanksgiving pumpkin crochet hat pattern is bursting with delightful texture! 3 different crochet stitch patterns are patched together to create the look that makes this beanie stand out from the typical crochet pumpkin hats you see this time of year. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Thanksgiving is just around the corner, and pumpkin hats are a staple during the Autumn months for parents wanting to visit the local pumpkin patch with their babies and kids. Since there are some grown-ups that want a pumpkin hat I have included extra notes in the child’s hat pattern that tell you how to crochet a pumpkin hat for adults.
How to Crochet a Pumpkin Beanie Hat for Babies and Kids
These textured hats are warm and cozy for crisp fall days. The crochet stitch patterns include the bobble stitch, shell, and cross-stitches. The top of the pumpkin hat is composed of a pretty stem that the secondary pumpkin color is worked into via post stitches. It is important to keep relaxed, even tension for this project so that there is plenty of stretch. I have included additional notes in the pattern to guide you as you crochet this hat.
Since pumpkins come in a variety of colors (have you seen the gorgeous heirloom pumpkins and gourds out there?), I’ve included a couple of yarn color suggestions below so you can crochet the pumpkin you want. Though some real-life pumpkins are variegated in their coloring, trying to use a variegated yarn on this crochet hat will make the unique texture disappear, so I do not recommend it for this project.
Who’s ready for some pumpkin pie err, hats now?
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. When you purchase something using these links a small amount of the sales price goes to me to help keep this site, and the patterns on it free. You do not pay any extra for the item you purchase.
Difficulty:
Intermediate
Materials Needed:
4.5mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
3.75mm hook – brim, leaves
3.25mm hook – Flower, rsc sections
100-130 yards Caron Simply Soft in “Pumpkin”, “Gold”, or color of your choice, 10 yards of “Bone”, or “Taupe” for stem, 15 yds of “Dark Sage”, and “Pistachio” for leaves, 15 yds “Sunshine” for flower
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitches Used:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
rsc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
BPsc = back post single crochet
FPsc = front post single crochet
FPdc = front post double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
FLO = front loop only
prev = previous
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
Special stitches:
Cross stitch = sk st, dc in next, cross back and work another dc in skipped st
Bobble/ 5 dc cluster = dc5tog in same st
Shell/split shell = 4 dc in same st
Picot = ch 1, sl st back into same ch
Additional Terms:
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (chainless starting dc): pull up a loop as tall as a regular dc. You’ll need to approximate if this is your first round. Place index finger on your hook pressing hard on the top of the loop to keep it steady, this way the loop doesn’t get larger or smaller. Wrap the hook over and behind the loop, yo, pull the yarn behind the wrapped yarn loop, yo again, and pull through the last 2 loops.
Stitching in the “3rd loop” of hdc. Instructions: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the “3rd loop”.
Gauge:
0-3 Months Size: 4 1/4” across after round 11
6-12 Months, Toddler, and Child Size: 5 1/4” across after round 12.
Measurements:
0-3 Months: 7” wide at widest point, 4 ½” tall excluding stem, (5¾” tall including stem)
6-12: 8” wide at widest point, 5 ½” tall excluding stem, (6 ¾” tall including stem)
Toddler: 9″ wide at widest point by 6 1/2″ tall excluding stem (7 ¾” tall including stem)
Child: 9 ½” wide at widest point, 7″ tall excluding stem, (8 ¼” tall including stem)
Additional Notes:
-Ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch
-Caron Simply soft is a lighter worsted weight yarn. If you substitute a different yarn stick with a similar light worsted weight such as Patons Classic Wool, or Lion Brand Heartland. Using a heavier worsted weight yarn, such as Caron One Pound, will make this hat very stiff. You have been warned. 😉
-(ch 1, dc) can be substituted for the chainless starting double crochet if you prefer.
-These patterns are versatile and easy to customize. You can adjust the patterns up or down by increasing or decreasing the hook size the pattern calls for. See the child’s hat pattern for notes in crocheting this pumpkin beanie to fit adults.
Patchwork Pumpkin Hat Crochet Pattern (US terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Crochet a 0-3 Months Size Pumpkin Hat:
Stem:
With color A, and using 4.5mm hook,
Round 1: 8 hdc in magic circle, join with sl st to first hdc. (8)
Rounds 2-5: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)
Round 6: ch 1, working in FLO, 2 sc in first st, sc in next *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
Round 8: ch 1, (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st, *(hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Drop color A and fasten off.
Body:
Round 9: With color B, work chainless starting dc in final sl st of round 8, *BPdc around hdc, BPhdc around next 4 dc, BPdc around hdc, dc in sl st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to standing dc. (42)
In this next round you will be creating a ribbed texture with front post stitches. These front post stitches will be worked around the dc that you worked into the slip stitches in round 9. This front post stitch will also be an increase since you also will have just worked a hdc into the same stitch.
Round 10: ch 1, FPdc around first dc, hdc in next 7 sts, *FPdc around same st that you worked the last hdc into, hdc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (48)
In this next round you will be switching between 3 different stitch patterns between each set of FPdc. It may seem confusing, but if you take it one comma at a time and don’t allow the whole round to overwhelm you you will be in better shape. These sections do not end up with the same stitch counts between FPdc stitches. This is ok—you’ll hardly notice it when you are done! The stitch patterns you will be working are cross stitch, split shell, and bobble. **FPdc stitches should always be worked around the FPdc from the previous round.**
Round 11: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross st across next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, sk st, FPdc around next st, 2 dc in next st, 5dc cluster (bobble) in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (56)
Round 12: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross st across next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPdc, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 2 times, bobble in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (56)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross st across next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPdc, dc in next 2 sts, 5dc cluster (bobble) in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (56)
Repeat rounds 12 and 13.
Before you begin this next section you will need to decide if you want a plain edge, or a scalloped edge on the very last round of the hat:
- If you want a plain edge, repeat round 12 one more time, then continue with the brim instructions.
- If you want a scalloped edge, go straight to the brim instructions.
Hat Brim Instructions:
Switch to 3.75mm hook,
In this next round you will be starting the brim. The pattern calls for a decrease at the beginning of each bobble section. That will decrease your stitch count by a total of 2 sts for the round. It’s small but it balances the sections out.
Round 1: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, hdc in next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc in next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (54)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, working in 3rd loop of hdc from prev round hdc in next 8 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (54)
Plain edge:
Switch to 3.25mm hook, or use 3.75mm hook with very tight tension,
Round 3: rsc (crab st) in each st around. (54)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Scalloped edge:
With 3.75mm hook,
Round 3: *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (9 scallops)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Make up to 2 small leaves only, and a flower (optional) following the instructions at the bottom of the page.
Crochet a 6-12 Months Size Pumpkin Hat:
Stem:
With color A, and using 4.5mm hook,
Round 1: 8 hdc in magic circle, join with sl st to first hdc. (8)
Rounds 2-5: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)
Round 6: ch 1, working in FLO, 2 sc in first st, sc in next *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
Round 8: ch 1, (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st, *(hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Drop color A and fasten off.
Body:
Round 9: Using color B, work chainless starting dc in final sl st of round 8, *BPdc around hdc, BPhdc around next 4 dc, BPdc around hdc, dc in sl st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to standing dc. (42)
In this next round you will be creating a ribbed texture with front post stitches. These front post stitches will be worked around the dc that you worked into the slip stitches in round 9. This front post stitch will also be an increase since you also will have just worked a hdc into the same stitch.
Round 10: ch 1, FPdc around first dc, hdc in next 7 sts, *FPdc around same st that you worked the last hdc into, hdc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (48)
Round 11: ch 1, FPdc around first FPdc, hdc in next 8 sts, *FPdc around same st that you worked the last hdc into, hdc in next 8 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (54)
In this next round you will be switching between 3 different stitch patterns between each set of FPdc. It may seem confusing, but if you take it one comma at a time and don’t allow the whole round to overwhelm you you will be in better shape. These sections do not end up with the same stitch counts between FPdc stitches. This is ok. We’ll balance things out slightly at the end of the hat. The stitch patterns you will be working are cross stitch, split shell, and bobble. **FPdc stitches should always be worked around the FPdc from the previous round.**
Round 12: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, dc in last st worked, FPdc around FPdc (this is the same stitch you ended your last cross stitch in and worked the dc in), sk st, [4 dc in next st, sk 2 sts] 2 times, 4 dc in next st, sk st, FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts, 5dc cluster (bobble) in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (68)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, [4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts] 2 times, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPdc, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 2 times, bobble in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (68)
Repeat rounds 12 and 13 2 more times.
Before you begin this next section you will need to decide if you want a plain edge, or a scalloped edge on the very last round of the hat:
- If you want a plain edge, repeat round 12 one more time, then continue with the brim instructions.
- If you want a scalloped edge, go straight to the brim instructions.
Hat Brim Instructions:
Switch to 3.75mm hook,
In this next round you will be starting the brim. The pattern calls for a decrease at the beginning and ending of each split shell section and increase at the end of each bobble section. That will decrease your stitch count by a total of 2 sts for the round. It’s small but it balances the sections out.
Round 1: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, hdc in next 10 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 8 sts, hdc2tog, FPdc around FPdc, hdc in next 10 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (66)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, working in 3rd loop of hdc from prev round hdc in next 10 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc.
Plain edge:
Switch to 3.25mm hook, or use 3.75mm hook with very tight tension,
Round 3: rsc (crab st) in each st around. (66)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Scalloped edge:
With 3.75mm hook,
Round 3: *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (11 scallops)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Make 2 leaves and a flower following the instructions at the bottom of the page.
Crochet a Toddler Size Pumpkin Hat:
Stem:
With color A, and using 4.5mm hook,
Round 1: 8 hdc in magic circle, join with sl st to first hdc. (8)
Rounds 2-5: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)
Round 6: ch 1, working in FLO, 2 sc in first st, sc in next *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
Round 8: ch 1, (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st, *(hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Drop color A and fasten off.
Body:
Round 9: Using Color B, work chainless starting dc in final sl st of round 8, *BPdc around hdc, BPhdc around next 4 dc, BPdc around hdc, dc in sl st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to standing dc. (42)
In this next round you will be creating a ribbed texture with front post stitches. These front post stitches will be worked around the dc that you worked into the slip stitches in round 9. This front post stitch will also be an increase since you also will have just worked a hdc into the same stitch.
Round 10: ch 1, FPdc around first dc, hdc in next 7 sts, *FPdc around same st that you worked the last hdc into, hdc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (48)
In this next round you will be switching between 3 different stitch patterns between each set of FPdc. It may seem confusing, but if you take it one comma at a time and don’t allow the whole round to overwhelm you you will be in better shape. These sections do not end up with the same stitch counts between FPdc stitches. This is ok. The stitch patterns you will be working are cross stitch, split shell, and bobble. **FPdc stitches should always be worked around the FPdc from the previous round.**
Round 11: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross stitch across next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (56)
Round 12: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next 2 sts, cross back over st just made and dc in previous st, cross st across next 6 sts, dc in top of FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3 dc between FPdc and next dc of prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 3 dc between dc and FPdc of prev round, FPdc around FPdc, bobble in next st, dc across next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (64)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, sk st, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
Round 14: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, sk st, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
Round 15: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, sk st, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, FPdc around FPdc, dc in next 3 sts, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
Repeat rounds 14-15 1 more time, then repeat round 14.
Before you begin this next section you will need to decide if you want a plain edge, or a scalloped edge on the very last round of the hat:
- If you want a plain edge, repeat round 15 one more time, then continue with the brim instructions.
- If you want a scalloped edge, go straight to the brim instructions.
Hat Brim Instructions:
Use same hook as you used for body of hat,
In this next round you will be starting the brim. The pattern calls for a decrease at the beginning of each cross stitch, split shell, and bobble section. That will decrease your stitch count by a total of 6 sts for the round.
Round 1: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc in next 9 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (66)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, working in 3rd loop of hdc from prev round hdc in next 10 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (66)
Plain edge:
Switch to 3.25mm hook, or use 3.75mm hook with tight tension,
Round 3: rsc (crab st) in each st around. (72)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Scalloped edge:
Round 3: *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (12 scallops)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Make 2 leaves and a flower following the instructions at the bottom of the page.
Crochet a Child Size Pumpkin Hat:
Note: if you want to make this into an adult size hat, follow pattern as written, then repeat rounds 15-16 1 more time (that should give an additional 1” of length). After that, begin hat brim with these modifications: continue using same hook on brim as you did on body of hat. Switch to 3.25 or 3.75mm hook (if you have very tight tension) only for crab stitch edging round.
Stem:
With color A, and using 4.5mm hook,
Round 1: 8 hdc in magic circle, join with sl st to first hdc. (8)
Rounds 2-5: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)
Round 6: ch 1, working in FLO, 2 sc in first st, sc in next *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
Round 8: ch 1, (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st, *(hdc, 2 dc) in first st, (2 dc, hdc) in next, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 petals)
Drop color A and fasten off.
Body:
Round 9: Using Color B, work chainless starting dc in final sl st of round 8, *BPdc around hdc, BPhdc around next 4 dc, BPdc around hdc, dc in sl st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to standing dc. (42)
In this next round you will be creating a ribbed texture with front post stitches. These front post stitches will be worked around the dc that you worked into the slip stitches in round 9. This front post stitch will also be an increase since you also will have just worked a hdc into the same stitch.
Round 10: ch 1, FPdc around first dc, hdc in next 7 sts, *FPdc around same st that you worked the last hdc into, hdc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (48)
In this next round you will be switching between 3 different stitch patterns between each set of FPdc. It may seem confusing, but if you take it one comma at a time and don’t allow the whole round to overwhelm you you will be in better shape. These sections do not end up with the same stitch counts between FPdc stitches. This is ok. We’ll balance things out slightly at the end of the hat. The stitch patterns you will be working are cross stitch, split shell, and bobble. **FPdc stitches should always be worked around the FPdc from the previous round.**
Round 11: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross stitch across next 8 sts, FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (56)
You will be increasing your split shells and you cross stitches. The cross stitch increases are the trickiest part in this round, so be aware of where you are placing them. They should line up perfectly with the cross stitches in the previous round. You will end up with 3 sts worked in and around the FPdc at the end of the cross stitch section.
Round 12: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next 2 sts, cross back over st just made and dc in previous st, cross st across next 6 sts, dc in top of FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3 dc between FPdc and next dc of prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 3 dc between dc and FPdc of prev round, FPdc around FPdc, bobble in next st, dc across next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (64)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, dc in next st, FPdc around FPdc, sk st, 4 dc between 1st and 2nd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
Round 14: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, 2 dc in next st, cross st across next 8 sts, 2 dc in net st, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, [4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts] 2 times, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 2 times, bobble in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (76)
Round 15: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross stitch across next 12 sts, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, [4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts] 2 times, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPdc, dc in next 3 sts, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (76)
Round 16: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, cross stitch across next 12 sts, FPdc around FPdc, sk 2 sts, [4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 4 sts] 2 times, 4 dc between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev round, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPdc, dc in next st, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 2 times, bobble in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (76)
Repeat rounds 15 and 16 2 more times then begin brim.
Before you begin this next section you will need to decide if you want a plain edge, or a scalloped edge on the very last round of the hat:
- If you want a plain edge, repeat round 15 one more time, then continue with the brim instructions.
- If you want a scalloped edge, go straight to the brim instructions.
Hat Brim Instructions:
Switch to 3.75mm hook,
In this next round you will be starting the brim. The pattern calls for a decrease at the beginning of each cross stitch and split shell section. That will decrease your stitch count by a total of 4 sts for the round. It’s small but it balances the sections out and gets you down to a multiple of 6, which is especially helpful if you decide to add the scalloped edge.
Round 1: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, FPdc around FPdc, hdc in next 11 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, working in 3rd loop of hdc from prev round hdc in next 10 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc.
Plain edge:
Switch to 3.25mm hook, or use 3.75mm hook with very tight tension,
Round 3: rsc (crab st) in each st around. (72)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Scalloped edge:
With 3.75mm hook,
Round 3: *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (12 scallops)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Crochet pumpkin leaf and flower instructions:
Make 2 leaves (a small one and a large one) using a 3.75mm hook and following these instructions:
Small pumpkin Leaf (measures approximately 2″ long):
With Color C,
Round 1: 8 hdc in magic circle join with sl st to first hdc. (8)
Round 2: 3 hdc in first st, (hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, tr, picot, ch 3, sl st) in next st, (ch 1, 2 dc, tr, picot) in next st, (tr, 2 dc, ch 1) in next st, (sl st, ch 3, tr, picot) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sl st in final st (counts as join).
Fasten off leaving 12” long tail for sewing leaf to hat, weave in other end.
Large pumpkin leaf (measures approximately 3″ long):
With Color D,
Round 1: 8 hdc in magic circle, join with sl st to first hdc. (8)
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (16)
Round 3: (hdc, 2 dc) in first st, 2 dc in next 4 sts, (dc, tr, picot, ch 3, sl st) in next st, ch 1, 2 dc in next st, (2 tr, picot) in next st, 2 tr in next st, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, sl st in next st, ch 3, (tr, picot, dc) in next st, 2 dc in each of the next 4 sts, ch 1, sl st to beginning of round 2 to join.
Fasten off leaving 12” long tail for sewing leaf to hat, weave in other end.
Pumpkin Squash flower:
Using Color E, and 3.25mm hook,
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring, join with sl st to first sc, but do not cinch closed. (6)
Round 2: ch 1, working over the stitches in round 1, 12 hdc in center of circle join with sl st to first hdc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, BPsc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
You should have a button shape now.
Make note of the slip stitches in this next round. You will be working front post stitches around them in round 6.
Round 4: *ch 2, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (6 ch-2 sps)
Round 5: ch 1, *3 sc in ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (18)
In this round you will be working dc sts around the sl sts from round 4, and then creating a petal across the 3 sc sts in round 5. The dc sts will create a ridge between each petal.
Round 6: ch 1, dc around first sl st from round 4, *(hdc, dc) in first puff st, (dc, tr, small picot, tr, dc) in next puff st, (dc, hdc) in next puff st, dc around next sl st from round 4; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. (6 petals)
Fasten off, leaving 12” long tail for sewing flower to hat, weave in other end.
Sew leaves and flower to top part of hat with the 12″ tails.
Want more gorgeous crochet patterns, and a little encouragement for your day? Sign up for my newsletter here! That way you’ll never miss out on special events, or freebies I’m offering.
JOIN ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA
I would love to see a picture when you’re done, so please feel free to come by my Facebook group and show off your project! Be sure to tag @kirstenhollowaydesigns when you share pictures of your finished hats on Instagram.
You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram, and Ravelry for more beautiful crochet patterns.
PATTERN TERMS AND CONDITIONS:
You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
If you enjoyed this pattern or found it useful, why not share a link to this post with your friends?
