This beautiful crochet granny square pattern creates a thick, sturdy block, which will make such a warm addition to your next blanket or afghan. It is so bursting with texture. However, no two rounds are the same. So, this is a challenging, yet fun square to crochet. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
This free granny square pattern was designed for the Creative Crossings Sampler Blanket to begin with. However, it would also make a stunning blanket by itself. Because it’s so textured, it looks beautiful either in one single color, or in several different ones. Variegated yarn is not recommended for this project as it will hide all that beautiful texture.
I used #4 worsted weight Red Heart “Soft” yarn because it has a nice drape, and feels amazing! It also has a beautiful silky sheen that makes this textured square stand out in an afghan. You may substitute other worsted weight yarns, but you may not end up with the same effect.
It is important to remember this is an intermediate/advanced level pattern and you will need to be comfortable making front and back post stitches, as well as puffs, clusters, shells and picot single crochet stitches.
A special thank you to AllFreeCrochet for featuring the Winter Opulence crochet granny square in their top 100 crochet patterns for 2019!
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5 mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
250-275 yards #4 worsted weight Red Heart “Soft” in Off-white
Blocking Board (Optional)
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
2tr cluster = treble crochet 2 together in same st
tr2tog = treble crochet 2 together (worked over top of the 2tr clusters, with one leg on each side of the cluster.)
BPsc = back post single crochet
BPhdc = back post half double crochet
BPdc = back post double crochet
FPsc = front post single crochet
FPdc = front post double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
BLO = back loop only
sp(s) = space(s)
Picot sc = Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 1 loop] 3 times to make a ch 3, then yo, and draw through last loop on the hook.
3dc cluster = dc3tog in same stitch
Small puff st = yo, pull up a loop 3 times in same st, yo, pull through 6 loops, yo, pull through final 2 loops
Puff st = yo, pull up a loop 4 times in same st, yo, pull through 8 loops, yo, pull through final 2 loops
12” x 12”
My circle measured a little over 3 1/4” across after round 6.
This square will not always lay flat as you are working it, although it does flatten out in the end and a bit of light blocking should fix any wobbly edges. The square pictured has not been blocked.
This is an intermediate/Advanced level square, but the texture repeats should be fairly intuitive after you complete the first repeat section of a round. Take it one comma at a time if you get stuck.
-I have recently rewritten rounds 20 and 21 using different terminology for the tr clusters and tr2tog stitches to hopefully make the instructions for the corner sections clearer.
Winter Opulence Crochet Granny Square Pattern (US Terms):
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Round 2: ch 1, working in BLO, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (12 sc)
Round 3: ch 1, *small puff st, ch 1, move to next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first small puff. (12 small puffs, 12 ch)
Round 4: ch 1, picot sc in first st, sc in next st * picot sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first picot sc. (12 picot sc, 12 sc)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc (36 sc)
Round 6: ch 1, BPsc around each sc st in round, join with sl st to first BPsc. (36 BPsc)
Your project will probably cup a little at this point, just hang in there. It’s going to get worse before it gets better.
Round 7: Sk join st, *sk next st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (9 5-dc shells)
Turn piece over so back side is facing,
Round 8: *ch 5, sl st around BPsc between petals (This is just the closest BPsc to where you placed your sl st. You’ll be working into the actual sl sts in a few rounds); repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (9 ch-5 sp, 9 sl st)
Turn piece back over so right side is facing,
Round 9: *sl st into ch-5 sp, (hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sl st) in ch-5 sp; repeat from * around. Final sl st counts as join. (9 petals)
Round 10: ch 1, *BPdc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next 3 tr, BPdc around next 3 sts, sk 2 sl sts; repeat from * along each petal. Join with sl st to first BPdc. (54 Bpdc, 27 BPhdc)
Round 11: ch 1, FPtr in sl st between first petals from round 7, *sk st, BPhdc around next 7 sts, sk st, (FPtr, ch 1, FPtr) in Round 7 sl st between next 2 petals; repeat from * around omitting final FPtr. Join with sl st to first FPtr. (9 7-st petals, 18 FPtr, 9 ch-1 sps)
Your project should start laying flat after this round.
Round 12: ch 1, FPdc around FPtr, *ch 1, sk 2 sts, [3dc cluster in next st, ch 1] 3 times, sk 2 sts, FPdc around FPtr, ch 1, puff st in ch-1 sp, ch 1, FPdc around next FPtr; repeat from * around omitting final FPdc. Join with sl st to first FPdc. (18 FPdc, 9 puff sts, 27 3-dc clusters)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc, [sc in ch-1 sp, picot sc in top of 3 dc cluster] 3 times, sc in ch-1 sp, FPdc around FPdc, sk st (puff st, ch 1, puff st) in top of puff st from previous round, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (18 FPdc, 36 sc, 27 picot sc, 18 puff sts)
Round 14: ch 1, *FPsc around FPdc, [picot sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, picot sc in next st, FPsc around FPdc, sk to ch-1 sp between puff sts from previous round, 7 hdc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPsc. (18 FPsc, 36 picot sc, 27 sc, 9 hdc petals)
Your project will start to pucker a bit after this round, but we’ll flatten it out in a few rounds.
Round 15: ch 1, *FPhdc around FPsc, [sc in next st, picot sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next st, FPhdc around FPsc, BPdc around next 7 hdc sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPhdc. (18 FPhdc, 9 BPdc petals, 36 sc, 27 picot sc)
Round 16: ch 1, *FPhdc around FPhdc, sk 3 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 3 sts, FPhdc around FPhdc, BPsc around next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPhdc. (144)
Round 17: ch 1, *hdc in FPhdc, BPhdc around next 7 sts, hdc in FPhdc, hdc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first hdc. (144 hdc)
Round 18: ch 1, BPsc in each st around, join with sl st to first BPsc. (144)
Round 19: ch 1, [sc in next st, picot sc in next st] 6 times, sc in next st, hdc in next st, (3dc cluster, ch 1), in next st, *sk st, (3dc cluster, ch 1) in next st, sk st, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1) in next, sk st, (3dc cluster, ch 1) in next st, sk st, 3dc cluster in next st, hdc in next st, [sc in next st, picot sc in next st] 12 times, sc in next st, hdc in next st, (3dc cluster, ch 1) in next st; repeat from * around, ending final side with (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1,) in next, sk st, (3dc cluster, ch 1) in next st, sk st, 3dc cluster in next st, hdc in next st, [sc in next st, picot sc in next st] 6 times, join with sl st to first sc. (Each side: 4 3dc clusters, 2 hdc, 2 tr, 13 sc, 12 picot sc)
Take a moment to assess your work, because your project should be starting to flatten out at this point.
Round 20: ch 1, sc in next 12 sts, *sk st, 5 dc in hdc, sc in ch-1 sp between 3dc clusters from previous round, skip next ch-1 sp, work (2tr cluster, ch 2, 2tr cluster, ch 2, 2tr cluster, ch 2, 2tr cluster) in next ch-1 sp, sc in ch-1 sp between 3dc clusters, 5 dc between hdc and sc sts from previous round, sk 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts; repeat from * around, omitting 12 sts at the end of final repeat, join with sl st to first sc. (Each side: 4 tr2tog, 2 5dc shells, 24 sc)
A few notes on the corners: The first tr2tog stitches worked in the corners in round 21 are worked around tr stitches and in the corner ch-1 space from round 19, 2 rounds below. This is the same ch-1 space where your 2tr clusters were worked in round 20. That’s a lot of stitches to fit in a ch-1 space, but it yields a tighter, neater corner. The two “legs” of the tr2tog are made over and around the 2tr clusters that were made in round 20. This should push the 2tr clusters from round 20 to the back. The tr2tog stitches in round 21 should both cover and “sandwich” the 2tr clusters from round 20 giving the petal shape and creating some dimension. If you get stuck, please feel free to come by my Facebook group and ask your question.
Round 21: ch 1, BPsc around next 10 sts, *BPhdc around next 7 sts, BPdc around next sc, work tr2tog around first tr2tog made in previous round by working on the first tr from round 19 (2 rows below) and in ch-1 sp from round 19, 3 sc in first ch-2 sp between 2tr clusters in previous round, work tr2tog into the ch-1 sp from round 19 and around second 2tr cluster made in previous round, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in second ch-2 sp from previous round, tr2tog into ch-1 sp from round 19 and around third 2tr clluster made in previous round, 3 sc in third ch-2 sp, tr2tog around last 2tr cluster made in previous round by working first leg in ch-1 sp from round 19 and second leg around tr from round 19, BPdc around sc, BPhdc around next 7 sts, BPsc around next 18 sc; repeat from * omitting 10 BPsc on final repeat, join with sl st to first BPsc. (Each side: 18 BPsc, 14 BPhdc, 2 BPdc, 4 tr2tog, 6 sc, 4 hdc)
Round 22: ch 1, sc in next 17 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp in corner, sc in next 5 sts (Note: the first of the 5 stitches you are working into will look like a chain, so be careful not to miss it!), hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 32 sts; repeat from * around, omitting 17 sts in final repeat, join with sl st to first sc. (Each side: 46 sc, 6 hdc)
Fasten off and then weave in ends.
Block to finish.
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