The Perfectly Provincial square remix is a stunning blend of texture and color that will make a beautiful addition to your next afghan! This crochet pattern is part of the 2019 Moogly Afghan CAL, so you’ll want to head on over to Tamara’s site for the 22 other gorgeous designs from your favorite fiber artists!
You may remember that I created the original Perfectly Provincial 12″ square for a different CAL earlier this year. Well, I loved it so much that I had to try it in the rich “delft” color scheme that Tamara chose for this year’s event . The only “problem” is that Red Heart With Love is a bit thicker than the yarn I used to make it originally, so the square had to be shortened by a couple of rounds. I don’t think that detracts from the beauty of this motif, however! I love the “stories” Delft tiles tell through their art, and I hope this mash-up of “provincial” and “Dutch” makes it’s way into your own family’s story.
Click here to add the original Perfectly Provincial 12″ square to your Ravelry queue!
(The instructions are slightly different after round 15)
A word to the wise, this square has a lot of color changes, so be prepared! If frequent color changes aren’t something you feel comfortable doing I’d suggest crocheting this in a solid color first to get a feel for how it works up, then come back and play with colors on your second time through. It looks good in a solid hue, but the colors really pump up the “wow” factor of this piece!
**For best results, please read the “Additional Notes” section it its entirety before starting this design**
245 yards #4 worsted weight Red Heart With Love in White, Navy, and Bluebell
Uses approximately 120 yards White, 75 yards Navy, 50 yards Bluebell.
6mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
BPsc = back post single crochet
FPhdc = front post half double crochet
BPhdc = back post half double crochet
FPdc = front post double crochet
BPdc = back post double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
2 dc cluster: dc2tog worked in same st
3 dc cluster: dc3tog worked in same st
Shell: 5 dc in same st
Large shell: 7 dc in same st
Popcorn st: 5 dc in same st, take hook out of last dc just worked and put it through top of first dc, grab loop from 5th dc and pull it through the first dc.
Measures a bit over 6” across after round 7
12” by 12” when blocked
-Mid-round color changes will be made by pulling a loop of the new color through the final 2 loops of a sc, dc, or tr st, or the last 3 loops of a hdc st. Color changes at the beginning of a new round can be done with a chainless starting method.
-This square has a lot of color changes. To cut down on the amount of ends I had to work in I carried my working yarn across the back of the square and worked over them in the next round if at all possible. I was able to hide most of my strings this way. I did cut my yarn for the Navy “buds” in round 13, and the Bluebell “shells” in round 14.
-If you have not done a lot of projects with a large number of color changes, and the color changes have you thoroughly confused, try making a solid colored square first.
-If you struggle with reading written crochet patterns this tutorial may help.
Perfectly Provincial Square Remix (US Terms):
With White yarn,
Round 1: ch 1, [2 dc cluster, ch 1] 8 times in magic circle, join with sl st to ch 1. (8 2 dc cluster, 8 ch-1 sps)
Join Navy, drop White and fasten off.
Round 2: ch 1, *popcorn st in ch-1 sp, ch 2; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first popcorn st. (8 popcorn sts, 8 ch-2 sps)
Join Bluebell, drop Navy and fasten off.
Round 3: ch 1, work 3 sc in first ch-2 sp, work 3 sc in each ch-2 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
Round 4: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st as join, *sk st, shell in next st, sk st, sc in next st; repeat from * around omitting sc in final repeat, join with sl st to first sc. (8 shells)
Note: The dip between each shell should line up perfectly with the point of each popcorn st. If it does not you will need to rip the last round out and restitch it so that it does.
Drop Bluebell, and fasten off.
Round 6: with White: chainless starting *tr in center top of popcorn st from round 2 (this will be the 3rd dc out of 5 from the popcorn st), join Navy: ch 1, popcorn st in sc between shells from prev round, pick up White: ch 1, tr in same st where you worked prev treble, BPhdc around next 5 dc, ch 1; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first tr. (16 tr, 40 BPhdc, 8 popcorn sts)
Round 7: with White: ch 1, *FPdc around tr from prev round, with Bluebell: 3 dc in ch-1 (located behind popcorn st), with White: FPdc around next tr, sk st, with Navy: (3 dc cluster, ch 1) in next 2 sts, 3 dc cluster in the next st, sk st; repeat from *around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (24 3 dc clusters, 24 dc, 16 FPdc, 16 ch-1 sps)
Drop Navy, and fasten off.
Round 8: with White: ch 1, *FPhdc around FPdc from prev round, with Bluebell: FPhdc around next 3 dc sts, with White: FPhdc around FPdc from prev round, sc between FPdc and 3 dc cluster, 2 sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, sc between 3 dc cluster and FPdc; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first FPhdc. (40 FPhdc, 48 sc)
Your piece may be rippling a bit at this point but will flatten out soon.
Round 9: *with Bluebell: sk 2 sts, large shell in next st (will be center of the row of 5 FPhdc sts you made in prev round), sk 2 sts, with White: BPsc around next 6 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc of first shell. (8 large shells, 48 BPsc)
Drop Bluebell, and fasten off.
Round 10: ch 1, *BPhdc around next 7 sts, sc in next 6 BPsc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPhdc. (48 sc, 56 BPhdc)
Round 11: ch 1, *FPtr around FPhdc from round 8, join Navy: (3 dc cluster, ch 1) in each of next 6 sts, 3 dc cluster in the next st, with White: FPtr around FPhdc from round 8, sk 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. Drop Navy, and fasten off. (56 3 dc clusters, 16 FPtr, 16 hdc, 48 ch-1 sps)
Round 12: with White: ch 1, *sc between FPtr and 3 dc cluster st, 2 sc in each of the next 6 ch-1 sps, sc between 3 dc cluster and FPtr, dc2tog around next 2 FPtr sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (112 sc, 8 dc2tog)
For this round you will join the Navy color for each popcorn stitch and cut it after completing the stitch. You should leave ends long enough to weave in securely. For an extra measure of security I knotted my ends together before weaving them in.
Round 13: ch 1, *sk 2 sts, BPhdc around next 10 sc sts, sk 2 sts, FPtr around second leg of dc2tog, join Navy, ch 1, popcorn in top of dc2tog, fasten off Navy. With White: ch 1, FPtr around first leg of dc2tog (you should be crossing your FPtr stitches. This will make what looks like a tight V under the popcorn); repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPhdc. (80 BPhdc, 16 FPtr, 8 popcorn st)
Round 14: ch 1, *FPdc around next 3 BPhdc sts, FPhdc around next 7 FPhdc sts, FPdc around FPtr, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk popcorn st, sc in next ch-1 sp, FPdc around FPtr, FPhdc around next 7 BPhdc sts, FPdc around next 3 BPhdc sts, FPtr around FPtr, with Bluebell: 8 dc in ch-1 behind popcorn st, with White: FPtr around FPtr; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. Drop Bluebell and fasten off. (8 FPtr, 32 FPdc, 56 FPhdc, 24 FPdc, 32 dc, 8 sc, 4 ch-1 sps)
Round 15: ch 1, * BPhdc around next 4 sts, BPsc around next 6 sts, sc in next 5 sts, BPsc around next 6 sts, BPhdc around next 4 sts, FPdc around FPtr, BPhdc around next 4 sts, tr in center top of popcorn st from prev round, ch 2, tr in same st as last tr made, BPhdc around next 4 sts, FPdc around FPtr; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPsc. (48 BPsc, 64 BPhdc, 8 tr, 20 sc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
There are 2 different versions of round 16, a solid color version and one that adds more color/interest which is more in keeping with the original version of this square. Pick only ONE!:
Round 16 (plain): ch 1, *dc 2, hdc 2, sc 17, hdc 2, dc 3, tr 4, skip next, 5 tr in ch-2 sp, skip next, tr 4, dc next; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc.
Round 16 (colorful): ch 1, *hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 7 sts, FPdc around FPdc from round 14, join Bluebell, 4 dc in ch-1 sp behind popcorn st from round 13, with White: FPdc around FPdc from round 14, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, FPdc around FPtr, join Navy: (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, with White: FPdc around FPtr; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first hdc. (45 sts per side, not including ch-1 sp in corner)
Your square should easily measure 12″x12″ now. If it does not you may add a sc border to your square.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Again, a BIG thank you to Tamara of Moogly for letting me be a part of this year’s 2019 Afghan CAL. <– Head on over to her site for the rest of the afghan blocks!
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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, or use additional images. You never have permission to use my images by themselves on Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce millions of copies.
I would love to make this beautiful delft square, but can’t read the pattern due to the Instagram follow thing floating on top and covering most of the page. There is no way of getting around it.
I use my phone for easy accessibility.
There should be an X you can tap at the top corner to close the Instagram box. 🙂