The classic triangle shape and lacy stitches make the Primrose and Proper shawl pattern a warm, yet beautiful project to dress up your wardrobe this winter. The simple single, half-double, and double crochet stitches mean this pattern is easy, and even an advanced beginner should be able to crochet this without too much trouble. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
The pattern is an easy 4-row repeat, but I’ve included stitch counts for several rows to help keep you on track. The best thing about triangle shawl patterns is that you can make them as long as you want! So if you crave that extra bit of warmth keep adding row repeats until it’s perfect for you.
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I have admired triangle shawls for years, and knew I wanted to make a triangle shawl with this stitch pattern at some point. Triangle shawls are so elegant, and if you’ve been following me for any length of time you know how much I want you to feel beautiful and feminine with every crochet pattern I release. This shawl is no exception!
While triangle shawls may seem challenging if you’ve never made one before you’ll have this crochet pattern down pat in just a few repeats. This shawl is one that you can work up quickly and requires very little concentration. Just put in your favorite winter movie, sip your peppermint flavored hot chocolate, click your heels together and repeat “there’s no number like 3” and you’ll be set. Seriously, if you remember to keep your stitch counts divisible by 3 you’ll have no problems.
Red Heart With Love yarn is a #4 worsted weight yarn that is thick and soft–perfect for making winter accessories like this shawl! And since it is a thicker yarn than what many people use to crochet shawls, you only need 2 full skeins (740 yds) to make a 6 ft by 2 1/2 ft shawl. Since this stitch pattern has so much texture I recommend using a solid color yarn so you don’t lose the beauty of the stitches.
One final word: You will need to block this shawl when you are done. The two I tested when writing this pattern had a bit of a hump in the middle. I don’t know if that’s due to only chaining 1 instead of 2 at the bottom point on most rows, or if my triangle shawl pattern-writing skills still lack (quite possibly it’s that, haha!), but blocking will take care of most of the problem. I’ll explain a little more about how to block this at the end of the post if you’re new to the process.
Let’s get started, shall we?
Need some accessories to wear with your shawl? Find the whole Primrose and Proper crochet pattern collection over here.
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5.5mm (I) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
Approximately 2 skeins (740 yds) Red Heart With Love in Aran
12″ x 12″ interlocking blocking boards
Metal “T” Pins
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc in the 3rd loop: After turning, work all stitches for that row in the 3rd loop of the hdc from previous row (it will be in the front). Instructions: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back*, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop. *For this shawl the textured portion created by working hdc in the 3rd loop should always be facing you when beginning a new row where working in the 3rd loop is called for.
13 hdc in 4”
Gauge is not especially important for this though since the increases can be carried out indefinitely (or until you run out of yarn).
72″ wide by 30″ long
-This shawl can be made smaller or larger based on the number of repeats you do.
-ch-2 and ch-3 at beginning of a row count as stitches.
Primrose and Proper Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern (US Terms):
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Round 1: In magic circle, 3 hdc, ch 1, 3 hdc, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 2), turn. (6 hdc, 1 ch)
Row 2: Working all stitches in 3rd loop, 2 hdc in first st (same as base of beg ch), hdc in next 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, 3 hdc in final st, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 3), turn. (12 hdc, 1 ch)
Row 3: (sc, ch 2, sc) in first st, sk 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st, sk 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, sk 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st, sk 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in top of ch-2 at end of row, hdc in same st, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 4), turn. (4 ch-2 sps, 1 ch-3 sp, 10 sc, 1 hdc, 2 ch)
Row 4: 2 dc in first ch-2 sp, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp to center, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in center ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp to last, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in top of turning ch-2, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 5), turn. (18 dc, 2 ch)
Row 5: 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each dc along first side, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in each dc st along second side, 3 hdc in top of ch-3 from previous row, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 6), turn. (23 hdc, 2 ch)
Row 6: Working all stitches in 3rd loop, 2 hdc in first st (same as base of beg ch), hdc in next 11 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next 11 sts, 3 hdc in top of ch-2, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 7), turn. (29 hdc, 2 ch)
Row 7: *(sc, ch 2, sc) in first st, sk 2 sts* repeat from * to * until end of first side, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, sk 2 sts, repeat from * to * until last st of row, (sc, ch-2, sc, hdc) in final st, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row), turn. (10 ch-2 sps, 1 ch-3 sp, 22 sc, 1 hdc, 2 ch)
Repeat rows 4-7 until your shawl is as big as you want it. Each row 5 and each row 6 repeat should increase each side’s stitch count by a multiple of 3 (See stitch counts below). Ending on row 7 should leave you with a pretty, bumpy edging along the bottom 2 sides of the shawl. Continue to work row 7 evenly along the top edge of the shawl, or if you don’t want bumps near your neck work sc sts evenly along the top edge.
The following stitch counts include the ch-2 or ch-3 that counts as a hdc or dc for these rows. **This is not a complete list, but should give you a good start**:
Row 8 st counts per side: 18 dc
Row 9 st counts per side: 21 hdc
Row 10 st counts per side: 24 hdc
Row 11: 8 ch-2 sps per side, 1 ch-3 sp at the bottom
Row 12 st counts per side: 27 dc
Row 13 st counts per side: 30 hdc
Row 14 st counts per side: 33 hdc
Row 15: 11 ch-2 sps per side, 1 ch-3 sp at the bottom
Row 16 st counts per side: 36 dc
Row 17 st counts per side: 39 hdc
Row 18 st counts per side: 42 hdc
Row 19: 14 ch-2 sps per side, 1 ch-3 sp at bottom
Row 20 st counts per side: 45 dc
Row 21 st counts per side: 48 hdc
Row 22 st counts per side: 51 hdc
Row 23: 17 ch-2 sps per side, 1 ch-3 sp at bottom
Row 24 st counts per side: 54 dc
Row 25 st counts per side: 57 hdc
Row 26 st counts per side: 60 hdc
Row 27: 20 ch-2 sps per side, 1 ch-3 sp at bottom
Row 28 st counts per side: 63 dc
Row 29 st counts per side: 66 hdc
Row 30 st counts per side: 69 hdc
Hopefully you have a pretty good idea of how each row increases by now. Keep going, or else your shawl will be pretty short!
Once your shawl is as long as you’d like, fasten off and continue with tassels.
Making the tassels
This is a slightly fancier tassel than most because you will be creating a cord for the center to tie your tassel to the shawl. If you don’t want/need a pretty cord you can simply attach the tassel to the shawl with a 12″ piece of doubled over yarn instead.
1. Cut 25 12″ lengths of yarn for each tassel. (There will 3 of them)
2. Cut another 12″ piece of yarn and tie the center of of your bundle of yarn lengths with this.
3. Cut one more 12″ piece of yarn. Hold one end still and twist the other end until it twists in on itself making a pretty cord. Keeping a tight hold over the ends, lay the cord over the center of the yarn bundle on top of the yarn you just used to tie the bundle together. Fold the tassel in half over the cord. This may require an extra pair of hands.
Note: You may feel like you have sprouted an extra pair of thumbs during this process, this is normal and the feeling should pass shortly. 😉
4. Attach the tassel to the ch-2 sp one of the points on the shawl with a square knot. If you don’t want your tassel to dangle at the end of the cord you may tie it closer to the shawl leaving longer ends. I left a space big enough to stick a finger through on mine. Weave the leftover ends into the shawl.
5. Cut 1 24″ length of yarn and wrap it around the tassel, 1″ below the top, several times. Knot the ends securely. Optional: Put a dot of craft glue on the knot to hold it in place.
Repeat this process 3 times.
Here is a picture of some of the steps to help you.
How to block your shawl
Twelve 12″x 12″ foam blocking boards <–Click the link if you need to pick up some of your own.
Metal T Pins <–Click the link if you need to pick up some of your own.
A large fuzzy bath towel
A bathtub or 5-gallon bucket of cool water
6’x6′ of floor space that’s not going to be disturbed for at least 12 hours. Kids and pets should not be running over this area since blocking boards use pins, and those don’t feel good going into feet.
1. Run your finished shawl under cool water until it is wet.
2. Gently squeeze out the water (but don’t wring!).
3. Roll the shawl in the towel and press out the excess water. Your shawl should be damp after this, but not dripping wet.
4. In your 6’x6′ square of undisturbed floor space, set up your 12″x 12″ blocking boards in a pattern of 6 at the top, 4 in the middle and 2 at the bottom.
5. Lay your shawl out on the boards. The top of the shawl should reach from one end of the row of 6 blocking boards to the other end.
6. Pin your shawl in the very top/center up near the top of the boards. Pull the sides up and pin them one at a time in a straight row.
7. After the top of your shawl is in place, stretch the bottom point down and pin it, making sure it is centered on that first pin you placed. Use the lines on your blocking boards to make sure the center line of the shawl is straight.
8. Make sure the other two sides of your shawl look straight. The way it lays on the blocking board is how it will lay when it’s dry. Pin them if they are not laying straight.
9. Leave your shawl on the blocking boards overnight, or until it is dry.
Once your shawl is dry it can be removed from the blocking boards and worn.
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