Fingerless gloves make a quick crochet project that you can finish in an afternoon. These Victorian style fingerless gloves are lacy, but will still keep your wrists and hands warm in cool weather. The pattern includes a thumb hole, and a delicate tie to snug them around your wrists. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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Easy shells, clusters and cross stitches make up the body of these beautiful Victorian inspired wrist warmers. The top edge has a ruffle made of cluster stitches forming a shell pattern that looks like flower petals.
Check out the matching Secret Garden neck warmer pattern over here
The pattern also includes a thumb hole providing a little more warmth for your hands. The opening of the thumb hole and finger hole are lined with the crab stitch giving a nicely finished edge.
I used a warm wool yarn blend to crochet these fingerless gloves so they are nice and cozy for winter. You can use either Lion Brand Wool-ease (pictured above), or you can use Patons Classic Wool (pictured below). Either one works well for this quick and easy crochet project.
My favorite part of these wrist warmers are the little ties with petals on the ends. You will need to use very tight tension when you crochet them to keep them looking delicate.
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Difficulty:
Easy
Materials Needed:
125 yds Patons Classic Wool #4 Worsted weight yarn in “Natural Mix”, or “Blush”, or Lion Brand Wool-ease in “Blush Heather”
3.75mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge <–Click here to grab a Rose Gold Odyssey like mine.
3.25mm hook (tie and crab stitch edging)
Yarn needle
Scissors <–Click here to grab a pair just like mine in the top picture
Stitches Used:
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
Additional Terms:
2dc cluster = dc2tog in same stitch.
3dc cluster = dc3tog in same stitch.
Cross stitch = sk st, dc in next st, cross over st just made and dc in skipped st.
Cross Stitch Increase = dc in next unworked st, cross over st just made, dc in previous st.
Working in the 3rd Loop of hdc – Instructions: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch forward to look at the back and you should see another “V” made by the “yarn over”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”. This is called the 3rd loop.
rsc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
Gauge:
8 hdc sts in 2″
Measurements:
7″ tall, by 4 1/2″ wide at widest point
Additional Notes:
-ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
-This wrist warmer should fit the average woman’s hand. You may be able to adjust the size a little but by going up or down a hook size.
-Your seam should run straight along the thumb-hole side of the glove. Your left and right hand glove pattern is the same.
-If you don’t want the tie at the top of the fingerless mitt, skip to round 4 after you work the beginning chain.
Secret Garden Wrist Warmers Pattern (US Terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
Ch 28, join with sl st to first ch.
Round 1: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (28)
Round 2: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, dc in each st around join with sl st to first dc. (28)
Round 3: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc. (28)
Round 4: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (28)
Round 5: ch 1, (3dc cluster, ch 1) in first st, sk st, *(3dc cluster, ch 1) in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3dc cluster. (14 3dc clusters, 14 ch-1 sps)
Round 6: ch 1, *2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (28)
Round 7: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (7 shells)
Round 8: sl st up the next 2 dc sts, sl st between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell, *ch 4, sl st between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (7 ch-4 sps)
Round 9: ch 1, 6 sc in first ch-4 sp, 4 sc in next 5 ch-4 sps, 6 sc in final ch-4 sp, join with sl st to first sc. (32)
Round 10: ch 1, cross stitch across next 2 sts, cross stitch increase, cross stitch across next 26 sts, cross stitch increase, cross stitch across final 2 sts, join with sl st to first dc of first cross stitch. (34)
Round 11: ch 1, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next 30 sts, 2 st in each of the next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (38)
Round 12: ch 1, ch 1, (3dc cluster, ch 1) in first st, sk st, *(3dc cluster, ch 1) in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first 3dc cluster. (19 3dc clusters, 19 ch-1 sps)
Round 13: ch 1, 3 sc in first ch-1 sp, 2 sc in each of the next 17 ch-1 sps, 3 sc in final ch-1 sp, join with sl st to first sc. (40)
In round 14 you will be creating a thumb hole. At the beginning of the round you slip stitch over 6 stitches before beginning the shells. After completing the required number of shells you will skip the remaining stitches at the end of the round, plus the 6 stitches you slip stitched along at the very beginning of the round. This will leave you with roughly a 12 stitch gap for the thumb.
Round 14: sl st over 6 sts, [sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st] 7 times, sk remaining sts of round, join with sl st to first shell. (7 shells)
You will work the rest of the rounds for the fingerless glove around the hand hole. Don’t worry about the thumb hole for now. Once you are done with this part you will come back and work a couple of rounds to lengthen the thumb hole.
Round 15: ch 1, sl st up the next 2 dc sts, sl st between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell, [ch 4, sl st between 2nd and 3rd dc of next shell] 7 times, join with sl st to first ch-4. (7 ch-4 sps)
Round 16: ch 1, *4 sc in next ch-4 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (28)
Round 17: ch 1, *cross stitch across next 2 sts; repeat from * around; join with sl st to first dc of first cross stitch. (28)
Round 18: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (28)
Round 19: ch 1, crab st in each st around. (28)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Top edging:
Attach yarn to top of glove,
Round 1: *ch 3, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (14 ch-3 sps)
In round 2 you will create cluster shells. It’s important to begin your first shell in the very first ch-3 sp of the round.
Round 2: ch 1, *working in ch-3 sp, [2 dc cluster, ch 1] 4 times, sl st into next ch-3 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around, omitting last ch-1 in final repeat, join with sl st to first 2dc cluster. (7 cluster shells)
Round 3: sl st into first ch-1 sp, *[3 hdc in 2 dc cluster, sl st in ch-1 sp] 4 times, sl st into next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Thumb edging:
Attach yarn to thumb hole,
Round 1: ch 1, sc evenly around entire thumb hole, join with st st to first sc. (12)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: switch to 3.25mm hook, or use tight tension, ch 1, rsc in each st around. (12)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Ties:
You will begin by making a 3-petaled flower, then chaining a long chain, and finally finishing off the other end with another 3-petaled flower. Use very tight tension when crocheting the ties. Doing so will make them look more delicate. If you have a 3mm hook, you’re welcome to use that instead.
If you want a gap at the center of your 3-petaled flower like the brown pair of fingerless gloves has ch 4 before beginning the petals.
These ties could also make a cute way to tie up a gift for Christmas…
Using 3.25mm hook, and very tight tension,
Ch 3, sl st into first ch forming ring, [ch 2, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, sl st in ring] 3 times, ch 70 or until your tie is approximately 12″ then begin ending:
Using a large-eyed yarn needle, thread the chain with the working yarn still attached through the needle and weave it through round 2 (over, under, over under) skipping 2 stitches at a time, then finish working the other 3-petaled flower as follows:
Sl st into 3rd ch from hook creating a ring, [ch 2, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, sl st in ring] 3 times.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Repeat all of the above steps for the other fingerless glove. Make sure your tie string comes out on the other side of the glove so you have a right hand and a left hand.
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You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
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Hi Kirste, I am having the same problem as Belinda’s comment above. This is in round 2 of the edging at top of glove. After round 1 you have 14 chain spaces. In round 2 you say you end with 7 dc shells, but I keep ending with 14dc shells. One in each 3 ch space in other words. What am I doing wrong?
Make sure you are slip stitching in every other space like the directions call for. That way you should end up with only 7 shells. I hope that helps!
Thanks Kirsten. Round 2: ch 1, *working in ch-3 sp, [2 dc cluster, ch 1] 4 times, sl st into next ch-3 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around, omitting last ch-1 in final repeat, join with sl st to first 2dc cluster. (7 cluster shells). So in the instructions above, where it says : ” sl st into next ch-3 sp, ” I should have an open ch-3 sp in between the previous shell and the new shell? 😳 Sorry if it is a silly question, but it is such a beautiful pattern, I want to make sure I get it right!
Yes, you should have a pattern of shell, sl st, shell, sl st, etc all the way around on those ch-3 sps. 😊
Hello! This is a beautiful pattern, thank you so much for sharing! I’m a beginner at crochet and i know it’s silly but i don’t quite understand round 6… Could you please give me a little hand? I don’t get what “2 sc in next ch-1 sp” means; is it 1 sc in each chain space from last round or is it 2 sc in the next stitch and then chain 1 and sk st? Thank you for the attention, wish you the best! 🙂
It means that you need to work 2 sc stitches in the next ch-1 space. 😊 take the pattern 1 comma at a time and that should help things make a lot more sense. This is not a beginner pattern, so you may find parts of it challenging, but hopefully taking it one comma at a time (and doing what is in between the commas before moving to the next one) will help!
Thank you so very much! i finally finished the pair today hehe they’re such beautiful mittens! your patterns are really incredible, stay safe and well! <3
You’re welcome! I’m glad you like them!
Hi Kirsten, beautiful gloves! What other kind of yarn would you suggest that can be used for this pattern? Wool makes me itchy!
Thank you
Hi Serina,
You could try Caron Simply Soft. Your gauge should be fairly similar, I believe. 😊
Step 1 for top of glove has 14 ch 3 spaces but then step 3 has me ending with only 7 shells. If I do the DC cross st in each ch 3 sp it will end with 14 shells. What am I doing wrong?
Which round is this? There is a point where you will slip stitch over to create a gap for the thumb hole. You will only work 7 shells on that round. Is that the one you are referring to?
I don’t get where to put the cross stitches in round 16 when round 15 was 7 ch-4 spaces. Please help. Thank you!
Oops! It looks like the pattern was missing a round. It’s fixed now!
Thank you so much, I’m almost done!
You’re welcome!