This textured t-shaped bonnet pattern is a classic piece for any baby’s wardrobe. The stitches create a unique, vintage look where “old” is fresh and modern again! Scroll down to find the free crochet pattern in 4 sizes for babies and toddlers. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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Make it a set:
Post stitches, shells, and cross stitches create a rich texture on this classic baby bonnet. This crochet baby bonnet has a pleasing vintage look that adds a bit of nostalgia to any modern baby’s closet.
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Difficulty:
Easy/Intermediate
Techniques used: post stitches, puff stitches, cross stitches, half-double crochet in the 3rd loop.
Materials Needed:
200-250 yds Loops and Threads #1 fingering weight Woolike in Beige, or color of your choice
2.55mm (Size 0) steel crochet hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitches Used:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
FPsc = front post single crochet
FPtr2tog = front post treble crochet 2 together
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
prev = previous
Measurements:
Newborn: 4.5″ by 4.5″ excluding ties
0-3 Months: 5.5″ by 5.5″ excluding ties
6 months: 6.25″ x 6.25″ excluding ties
12-24 Months: 7″ x 7″ excluding ties
Gauge:
12 cross stitches in 4”, 3 rows of cross stitches is 1” tall.
Additional Terms:
Working in the 3rd loop of hdc: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop.
Seed Stitch: alternate sc and dc stitches across the designated row or partial row, then on the next row work a dc stitch in the sc stitch from the previous row, and a sc stitch in the dc stitch from the previous row.
Hdc puff st: YO, pull up a stitch 5 times, pull through 10 loops on hook, YO, pull through final 2 loops.
Cross st: sk st, dc in next st, cross over st just made, dc in skipped st.
Shell: 4 dc in same st
Additional Notes:
-Stitch counts are unimportant for the bottom–only your placement matters.
-If you prefer to sew the seam at the end instead of joining it with sc, you may.
-The bonnet pattern is crocheted flat in rows and then the stem of the T is sewn down to the “arms” at the end to give it it’s shape. The result is a somewhat square looking bonnet, but don’t worry–it will fit nicely to the baby’s head when worn. This classic baby bonnet shape is more well-known in the knitting world.
-This pattern is easily adjustable! It is worked in multiples of 4 + 6, + 1, plus 1 more for the turning chain.
How to Crochet a Classic Baby Bonnet (US Terms):
Crochet a Classic Baby Bonnet for Newborns:
Ch 60,
Row 1 (RS): sc in second ch from hook, sc in each remaining st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 2), turn. (59)
Row 2 (WS): sk 2 sts, shell in next st, *sk 3 sts, shell in next st; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in final st, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 3), turn. (14 shells, 2 dc)
Row 3 (RS): sk 2 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, *sk 4 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 4), turn. (14 shells, 2 dc)
Row 4 (WS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, hdc puff st between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next 2 sts; repeat from * across (note: final hdc will be worked in top of ch-3 from prev row), ch 1, turn. (14 hdc puff sts, 30 hdc)
Row 5 (RS): *sc in next 2 hdc sts, sc in ch-1 sp, sk puff st, sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * across putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (59)
Row 6 (WS): sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (59)
You will now be working on 2 different rows. Your sc sts will be worked on row 7 as normal sts, and your FPtr2tog sts will be worked around the hdc sts you made in row 4. They should form peaks over top of the hdc puff sts. Remember to skip a stitch when you start making the sc sts again-the FPtr2tog counts as a st so you need to make room for it!
Row 7 (RS): sc in next 3 sts, *FPtr2tog placing first leg around hdc next to first puff st from row 4, place second leg around next hdc on other side of puff st from row 4, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 8), turn. (14 FPtr2tog, 45 sc)
Row 8 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 28 times, sk st, dc in final st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 9), turn. (58)
Row 9 (RS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 28 times, dc in top of ch 3, ch 1 (counts as first sc of row 10), turn. (58)
*Fasten off*
Working on right side,
Attach yarn to top of ch-3 from prev row,
Row 10 (RS): sc in each st across, putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (59)
Row 11 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 12), turn. (59)
Row 12 (RS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, hdc puff st in the next, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next st; repeat from * across, put hdc in final st of row. (14 hdc puff st, 16 hdc)
*Fasten off*
Working on right side,
Attach yarn to top of ch-2 from prev row,
Row 14 (RS): sc in next 2 hdc sts, *sc in ch-1 sp, sc in puff st, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in hdc; repeat from * across, sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (59)
Row 15 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (59)
Row 16 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (55)
Row 17 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (51)
Row 18 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (47)
Row 19 (WS): sl st over 12 sts, ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 11 times, sc in next st, ch 1, turn. Note: there should be 12 sts left at end of row. (23)
Row 20 (RS): ch 1, dc in first st, sc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, dc in final st, turn. (23)
Row 21 (WS): ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st, turn. (23)
Repeat rows 20 and 21 until the flap is long enough to cover the back of the bonnet (roughly 16-18 total rows), then move on to “Ending” section below.
Crochet a 0-3 months Classic Baby Bonnet (US Terms):
Ch 68,
Row 1 (RS): sc in second ch from hook, sc in each remaining st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 2), turn. (67)
Row 2 (WS): sk 2 sts, shell in next st, *sk 3 sts, shell in next st; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in final st, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 3), turn. (16 shells, 2 dc)
Row 3 (RS): sk 2 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, *sk 4 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 4), turn. (16 shells, 2 dc)
Row 4 (WS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, hdc puff st between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next 2 sts; repeat from * across (note: final hdc will be worked in top of ch-3 from prev row), ch 1, turn. (16 hdc puff sts, 34 hdc)
Row 5 (RS): *sc in next 2 hdc sts, sc in ch-1 sp, sk puff st, sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * across putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (67)
Row 6 (WS): sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (67)
You will now be working on 2 different rows. Your sc sts will be worked on row 7 as normal sts, and your FPtr2tog sts will be worked around the hdc sts you made in row 4. They should form peaks over top of the hdc puff sts. Remember to skip a stitch when you start making the sc sts again-the FPtr2tog counts as a st so you need to make room for it!
Row 7 (RS): sc in next 3 sts, *FPtr2tog placing first leg around hdc next to first puff st from row 4, place second leg around next hdc on other side of puff st from row 4, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 8), turn. (16 FPtr2tog, 51 sc)
Row 8 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 32 times, sk st, dc in final st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 9), turn. (66)
Row 9 (RS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 32 times, dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 10), turn. (66)
Row 10 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 32 times, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (66)
Row 11 (RS): sc in each st across, putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (67)
Row 12 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 13), turn. (67)
Row 13 (RS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, hdc puff st in the next, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next st; repeat from * across, put hdc in final st of row. (16 hdc puff st, 18 hdc)
*Fasten off*
Working on right side,
Attach yarn to top of ch-2 from prev row,
Row 14 (RS): sc in next 2 hdc sts, *sc in ch-1 sp, sc in puff st, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in hdc; repeat from * across, sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (67)
Row 15 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (67)
Row 16 (RS): sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from *until there is 1st left in row, sc in next st, turn. (67)
Row 17 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (63)
Row 18 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (59)
Row 19 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (55)
Row 20 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (51)
Row 21 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next, turn. (47)
Row 22 (RS): sl st over 10 sts, ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 13 times, sc in next st, ch 1, turn. Note: there should be 10 sts left at end of row. (27)
Row 23 (WS): ch 1, dc in first st, sc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, dc in final st, turn. (27)
Row 24 (RS): ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st, turn. (27)
Repeat rows 23 and 24 until the flap is long enough to cover the back of the bonnet (roughly 18-20 total rows), then move on to “Ending” section below.
Crochet a Size 6 months Classic Baby Bonnet:
Ch 76,
Row 1 (RS): sc in second ch from hook, sc in each remaining st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 2), turn. (75)
Row 2 (WS): sk 2 sts, shell in next st, *sk 3 sts, shell in next; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in final st, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 3), turn. (18 shells, 2 dc)
Row 3 (RS): sk 2 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, *sk 4 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 4), turn. (18 shells, 2 dc)
Row 4 (WS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, hdc puff st between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next 2 sts; repeat from * across (note: final hdc will be worked in top of ch-3 from prev row), ch 1, turn. (18 hdc puff sts, 38 hdc)
Row 5 (RS): *sc in next 2 hdc sts, sc in ch-1 sp, sk puff st, sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * across putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (75 sc)
Row 6 (WS): sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (75)
You will now be working on 2 different rows. Your sc sts will be worked on row 7 as normal sts, and your FPtr2tog sts will be worked around the hdc sts you made in row 4. They should form peaks over top of the hdc puff sts. Remember to skip a stitch when you start making the sc sts again-the FPtr2tog counts as a st so you need to make room for it!
Row 7 (RS): sc in next 3 sts, *FPtr2tog placing first leg around hdc next to first hdc puff st from row 4, place second leg around next hdc on other side of hdc puff st from row 4, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 8), turn. (18 FPtr2tog, 57 sc)
Row 8 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 36 times, sk st, dc in final st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 9, turn. (74)
Row 9 (RS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 36 times, dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 10), turn. (74)
Row 10 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 36 times, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (74)
Row 11 (RS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 36 times, dc in top of ch 3, ch 1, turn. (74)
**Fasten off**
Working on right side,
Attach yarn to top of ch-3 from prev row,
Row 12 (RS): sc in each st across, putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. Note: you may put the 2 sc in same st in the middle of the row if you prefer. (75)
Row 13 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row, turn). (75)
Row 14 (RS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, hdc puff st in the next, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next st; repeat from * across, put hdc in final st of row. (18 hdc puff sts, 21 hdc)
*Fasten off*
Working on right side,
Attach yarn to top of ch-2 from prev row,
Row 15 (RS): ch 1, sc in next 2 hdc sts, *sc in ch-1 sp, sc in puff st, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in hdc; repeat from * across, sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (75)
Row 16 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (75)
Row 17 (RS): sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st, ch 1, turn. (75)
Row 18 (WS): dc in first st, sc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, dc in final st, turn. (75)
Row 19 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn (71)
Row 20 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn (67)
Row 21 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (63)
Row 22 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (59)
Row 23 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (55)
Row 24 (WS): sl st over 14 sts, ch 1, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 13 times, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (27)
Row 25 (RS): *sc in first st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (27)
Row 26 (WS): *dc in first st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (27)
Repeat rows 25 and 26 until the flap is long enough to cover the back of the bonnet (roughly 20-22 total rows),then move on to “Ending” section below.
Crochet Size 12-24 months Toddler sized bonnet:
Ch 84,
Row 1 (RS): sc in second ch from hook, sc in each remaining st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 2), turn. (83)
Row 2 (WS): sk 2 sts, shell in next st, *sk 3 sts, shell in next st; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in final st, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 3), turn. (20 shells, 2 dc)
Row 3 (RS): sk 2 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, *sk 4 sts, shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row; repeat from * across, when there are 3 sts left in row, sk 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 4), turn. (20 shells, 2 dc)
Row 4 (WS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, 5 hdc puff between 2nd and 3rd dc of shell from prev row, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next 2 sts; repeat from * across (note: final hdc will be worked in top of ch-3 from prev row), ch 1, turn. (20 hdc puff sts, 42 hdc)
Row 5 (RS): *sc in next 2 hdc sts, sc in ch-1 sp , sk puff st, sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * across putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (83 sc)
Row 6 (WS): sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (83)
You will now be working on 2 different rows. Your sc sts will be worked on row 7 as normal sts, and your FPtr2tog sts will be worked around the hdc sts you made in row 4. They should form peaks over top of the hdc puff sts. Remember to skip a stitch when you start making the sc sts again-the FPtr2tog counts as a st so you need to make room for it!
Row 7 (RS): sc in next 3 sts, *FPtr2tog placing first leg around hdc next to first puff st from row 4, place second leg around next hdc on other side of puff st from row 4, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 8), turn. (20 FPtr2tog, 63 sc)
Row 8 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 40 times, sk st, dc in final st of row, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 9), turn. (82)
Row 9 (RS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 40 times, dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 (counts as first dc of row 10), turn. (82)
Row 10 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 40 times, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (82)
Row 11 (RS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 40 times, dc in top of ch 3, ch 1, turn. (82)
Row 12 (WS): [Cross st across next 2 sts] 40 times, dc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (82)
Row 13 (RS): sc in each st across, putting 2 sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. Note: you may put the 2 sc in same st in the middle of the row if you prefer. (83)
Row 14 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of row 15), turn
Row 15 (RS): hdc in next st, *ch 1, sk st, 5 hdc puff in the next, ch 1, sk st, hdc in next st; repeat from * across, put hdc in final st of row. (20 hdc puff sts, 24 hdc)
*Fasten off*
Working on right side,
Attach yarn to top of ch-2 from prev row,
Row 16 (RS): ch 1, sc in next 2 hdc sts, *sc in ch-1 sp, sc in puff st, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in hdc; repeat from * across, sc in final st of row, ch 1, turn. (83)
Row 17 (WS): FPsc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (83)
Row 18 (RS): sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st, ch 1, turn. (83)
Row 19 (WS): dc in first st, sc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, dc in final st, turn. (83)
Row 20 (RS): sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st, turn. (83)
Row 21 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from *until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (79)
Row 22 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (75)
Row 23 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (71)
Row 24 (RS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, sc in next st, turn. (67)
Row 25 (WS): sl st over 2 sts, ch 1, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until there are 3 sts left in row, dc in next st, turn. (63)
Row 26 (RS): sl st over 16 sts, ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 16 times *alternate sc and dc sts over next 31 sts, when there are 16 sts left at end of row, ch 1, turn. (31)
Row 27 (WS): ch 1, dc in first st, sc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, dc in final st of row, turn. (31)
Row 28 (RS): ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * across, sc in final st of row, turn. (31)
Repeat rows 27 and 28 until the flap is long enough to cover the back of the bonnet (roughly 22-24 total rows),then move on to “Ending” section below.
Sewing your baby bonnet together
Ending (all sizes):
Stitch counts are not particularly important for this section-just be as even as you can.
You should now have a T-shaped piece. This is what it should look like from the front side:
Join back (“tail”) and sides (“arms”) of bonnet together with single crochet. This should be done from the bottom to the top, along the inside (WS) of the bonnet, as shown below:
Fasten off and weave in ends after joining both sides’ edges to the back flap.
Finishing, and crocheting ties for your bonnet
Row 1 (RS): Join yarn to bottom front corner of bonnet. Working along the bottom edge, hdc in each sc st, and hdc st, 2 hdc in each dc. Once you reach back section of bonnet hdc2tog across entire back panel, putting 1 hdc in the remaining st, then resume: hdc in each sc st, and hdc st, 2 hdc in each dc to end of other side, ch 1, turn,
Row 2 (WS): working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st across. When working across the back it may be difficult to spot the 3rd loop, but it is there. Look for it almost between the hdc2tog stitches. Continue working in 3rd loop of hdc to end of other side. Do NOT fasten off, then begin ties.
Ties
Note: If you want longer or shorter ties, feel free to adjust your chain counts.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 86, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across, when you get back to the edge of the bonnet continue working one hdc in each sc until you reach the other side, ch 86, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch until you arrive back to end of bonnet, join with sl st to hdc. You may need to twist the chain to make sure the correct side of the tie is showing when you join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
This bonnet was originally featured over on Make & Do Crew. 🙂
I would love to see a picture when you’re done, so please feel free to come by my Facebook group and show off your finished project! Be sure to tag @kirstenhollowaydesigns when you share pictures of your bonnet on Instagram!
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PATTERN TERMS AND CONDITIONS:
You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, since this causes confusion for the person visiting the link, however the image may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns.
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies. Also, if you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
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Hi there,
I’m really struggling on joining the bonnet up, I don’t understand what bit goes where. Is it possible to post more photos of which bit I’m stitching together? Thank you
If you scroll to the bottom of the post there should be a short tutorial with 3 or 4 pictures that show how things should be put together. 😊
I don’t understand row 8. It says to cross over 2 stitches. 0-3 month size.
A single cross stitch is worked across 2 stitches. The description for how to work a cross stitch should be listed in the notes before the pattern begins. 😊
I am finding some difficulty with end of row 2 ,where it says ( turn ( 20 shells ,2 dc)). As far as I
can see , it is(20 shells and 3chains at end of row.. can you please clarify. Thanks
Hi Lina,
I’m sorry for the confusion. The pattern notes say the ch-3 counts as the first dc of the next row, so I have written the final counts as “2 dc” since the row also ends with a dc in the top of the ch-3 from the previous row. 🙂 I hope that helps!
Thanks for your clarification. I am making a christening bonnet for my 18 month old grand-daughter. The measurements for that particular size is 7″X 7″ . Is that the measurement of the folded bonnet please? Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated.
You’re welcome! Yes, those are the folded bonnet dimensions. 😊
Hey! I love this pattern, thanks so much for posting. I am having a bit of an issue though and was wondering if you could help. When it comes time to join the back to the sides no matter what I do it doesn’t come out rounded, but instead with notches that look a bit like horns. Any help is appreciated.
The back will be a little square (though it shouldn’t look like horns), but once it’s on a baby’s head it should fit fine. 😊
Hi – in newborn rows 16-19 is the main pattern doing SC into SC and then DC into DC of prev row? I’m struggling to keep my stitch count correct so just need to know that I’m putting the right stitch into the previous row stitches please??
You’ll be working sc into dc and dc into sc to create the seed stitch portion of this pattern. Stitch markers can be a life-saver when working this design. 😊
Hi, I was wondering how much bigger sizing would be if I were to use size 3 light yarn. Would it be significantly larger? Thanks
Yes, it would make the bonnet significantly larger. I don’t know how much though so you would need to play around with it. You can see the matching blanket crocheted with #3 yarn over here: https://kirstenhollowaydesigns.com/2021/03/crochet-classic-baby-blanket-free-pattern-tutorial.html I’d recommend only using a 4mm or 4.5mm hook for the bonnet though.
I have some Scheepjes Catona Fingering Weight yarn left over from a baby blanket I made (sorry, before I saw your baby blanket pattern). Do you think it will work if I use the same 3.5mm hook for this pattern with that yarn?
I’m not familiar with that yarn, but you could definitely try using it. Just make sure you meet gauge before beginning. 😊
Hi. I’m struggling with the instructions slip stitch over. What does this mean. I cannot find a tutorial anywhere online how to do this.
This is moving you over down the row so you dont have to break your yarn and reattach. Slip stitch (it’s just like you do when you join a round) along the top of each stitch until you arrive at the designated stitch. 😊
Perfect thanks. Loved making this but the ‘over’ confused me 🙂
I’m glad it was helpful! 😀
I am struggling with this pattern not coming out right in the 2nd and 3rd rows for the 0-3mo pattern. Please help.
What issues are you having with the pattern?
On Row 3, if I skip 4 stitches in between each shell, the shells won’t be between the 2nd and 3rd stitches of the shells from Row 2.
If you skip 1, 2 initially then make a shell, and then skip 3, 4, and 1, 2 of the next shell it should come out to 4 stitches between.
Hi, this is a beautiful pattern. Do you have a matching sweater pattern for a newborn?
Hi Lori,
I don’t have any matching baby sweaters. I only have a matching blanket and diaper cover. Here’s the link to the blanket: https://kirstenhollowaydesigns.com/2021/03/crochet-classic-baby-blanket-free-pattern-tutorial.html I believe the diaper cover pattern is linked above the beginning of the pattern.
Gorgeous bonnet, Kirsten! I love all variety of textures.
Thank you Alexandra! I love working with fine yarn to crochet these kinds of baby bonnet patterns. So much fun! 😁
Hello
I am making your primrose and proper blanket but feel the wool recommended doesn’t look as fine as the wool used in your photo, or I have bought the wrong wool…
Please could you reply this email?
You should be using a #4 worsted weight yarn for this project. 😊