Crochet a slouchy beanie for women, kids, and toddlers that is perfect for the transition in seasons from Winter to Spring, or Fall to Winter. Puff stitches and shells, along with post stitches add interest to this highly textured slouch hat pattern. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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Spring is just around the corner where I live, but it’s still cool enough that some days require a little something to cover your head. This crochet hat is perfect for that transition between seasons maintaining a nice balance of warmth while still being light weight and not bulky.
I used Bernat Baby Sport to crochet the child and adult hats, but I used Bernat Baby Softee for the toddler sized hat because I can’t seem to find the “Ecru” color online or in my local store anymore. Both of these yarns are acrylic and should hold up to washing and wear fairly well. You are also welcome to use a #3 light-weight cotton yarn such as Bernat Softee Baby Cotton.
I’ll share where I got the name from in just a moment, but first here’s a look at the pattern on the back of the hat. I love how those puff stitches, post stitches and, scallops come together to create all that beautiful texture!
When I was 3 or 4 years old, my mom used to sing me a cute song about pussy willows, and as I was looking at the stitch details of this hat it reminded of that song. Maybe you’ve heard it too:
I know a little pussy Her coat is silver grayShe lives down in the meadow Not very far away.
Though she is a pussy She’ll never be a cat.
She is a pussy willow. Now what do think of that?
I’ve labeled this an “intermediate” level, but there are quite a few notes to help you along in the crochet pattern. Pay attention to the special way you will need to work your puff stitches so they come out like mine. If you don’t, and you use very relaxed tension or make tall stitches, you will have a very puffy hat that will look quite different!
You may never want to see another puff stitch after this project is over, but I hope you don’t get too tired of crocheting them! Let’s get starting on making this hat, shall we?
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. When you purchase something using these links a small percentage of the sales price goes to me. However, you do not pay any extra for the item you purchase.
Difficulty:
Intermediate
Techniques used: puff stitches, shells, post stitches, center single crochet (optional)
Materials Needed:
4.5mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
150, 220, 300, 325 yards of #3 Lightweight Bernat Baby Sport in “Grasshopper”, “Cloudburst”, “Baby Taupe”, “Ecru”, or #3 Bernat Baby Softee in “Antique White”
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
Stitches Used:
ch/chs = chain/chains
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
FPsc = front post single crochet
BPsc = back post single crochet
FPhdc = front post half double crochet
BPhdc = back post half double crochet
FPdc = front post double crochet
BPdc = back post double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
Additional Terms:
Small Puff stitch: yo, pull up a loop 3 times in same st, yo, pull through 6 loops, yo, pull through final 2 loops.
Puff Stitch: yo, pull up a loop 4 times in same st, yo, pull through 8 loops, yo, pull through final 2 loops.
(Optional)Center Single Crochet = known as the “Waistcoat stitch” or “Knit Stitch”. Work a regular sc by inserting your hook in the center of the post, between the 2 vertical lines that the loop you draw up makes. Complete as you would a regular sc.
sk = skip
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
prev = previous
Gauge:
Hat should measure 4″ across after round 7.
Measurements:
Toddler: 7” tall, by 8 1/2” wide at widest point
Child: 9” tall, by 10” across at widest point
Adult: 11” tall, by 11” wide across widest point
Adult Extra Slouchy: 11” tall, by 12” wide across widest point
Additional Notes:
-ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
-FPdc and FPtr stitches will be worked around the FPdc or FPtr sts directly below them. You may have 2-3 rounds between them, but always work your FPdc or FPtr stitches around the one below. This is what creates the vertical ridges that run up the sides of the hat.
-There are 2 different adult size slouch hats. One is great if you have lots of hair, or a larger than average head. The other should fit the average women’s head.
-If you want this hat to be a snug-fitting beanie for an adult you may follow the child’s hat pattern and add a wider band to it at the end. The instructions and additional notes are near the end of the child’s hat pattern.
-This is a remake of an older hat pattern for Happily Hooked Magazine, and the #3 weight Bernat Baby Sport yarn in the “Grasshopper” color that I used originally has been discontinued. If you don’t have any of that in your stash, you may substitute with Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, Loops and Threads “Snuggly Wuggly”, Loops and Threads “Joy DK”, or head over to YarnSub for a more complete list of yarns that could work.
Pussywillow Slouch Hat Pattern (US Terms):
Each of these hats is crocheted in a slightly different manner after the first 7-8 rounds. So, if you’ve made 1 hat, keep in mind that the way the other sizes come together will be different. You’ll notice this especially in the bands, but also in the number of shells between the post stitches. The reason for this is that the original hat (published in one size in a magazine back in 2017) was crocheted in multiples of 9, which is a count I almost never use, but I wanted to stick with it just because it was a fun, personal challenge to try to make things work that way. The regular adult hat size is written in multiples of 8, and it is much closer in size an shape to the original hat.
Toddler Size Hat:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6)
You may work the following round as regular sc, or you can work them as center sc to make things a little more special.
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, small puff st in first st, ch 1, *small puff st in next st, ch 1; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first puff st. (12 small puff sts, 12 ch-1 sps)
Round 4: ch 1, *sk st, 3 sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (36)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, *sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (9 5-dc shells, 9 sc)
Round 6: ch 1, *sk st, working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next dc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPhdc. (45)
We will be increasing in the following round, but one of the increase stitches will be worked around the sc from round 5, and the other will be worked in the top of round 6, just behind where the FPdc is sitting. Place stitch markers every 5th stitch to help you keep track of your increases and not skip any stitches.
One more note, to get your post stitches to lay flatter, work through the 2 loops that are at the front of the stitch. It’s essentially working through the front half of the stitch and isn’t so bulky.
Round 7: ch 1, *FPdc around sc in round 5, sc in marked st and in next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to FPdc. (54)
Gauge check: circle should measure 4” across.
In the following round you will be working puff stitches. You will want to make them very short—no higher than a hdc stitch. If you make them taller they will bulge out and look strange, so when you draw up a loop try to keep it at the height of a sc and then when you finish the stitch it should be at that hdc height.
Keep very relaxed tension when making the ch sts between the puffs in the following round and whenever you see this round repeat. If you have tight tension you may wish to ch 2 instead. If you do not keep relaxed tension the hat will get very tight in these sections.
Round 8: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc in prev round, ch 1, [puff stitch in next st, ch 1, sk st] 3 times; repeat from * around Join with sl st to first FPdc. (27 puff sts, 9 FPdc, 36 ch-1 sps)(72 sts total)
Gauge check: circle should measure 5” across.
Round 9: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 10: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (18 4-dc shells)
Round 11: ch 2, *FPdc around FPdc from round 8, [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 2 dc sts, BPhdc around dc] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (81)
To help you in the round following this one place a stitch marker in every sc stitch made in the top of a FPdc stitch. The next time you make FPtr stitches they will be hovering in front of this stitch. You will need to account for that when working the puff stitches in a future round repeat.
Round 12: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around, sc in last 3 sts of round, join with sl st to sc. (72)
From here on out, for the body of the hat, you will work FPtr stitches instead of FPdc stitches.
Round 13: ch 1, *FPtr around FPdc from round 11 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st, ch 1, sk st] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (27 puff sts, 9 FPtr, 36 ch-1 sps)
Round 14: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 15: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (18 4-dc shells)
Round 16: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 13, [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 2 dc sts, BPhdc around dc] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (81)
Round 17: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 3 sts of round, join with sl st to sc. (72)
Hat should measure 4 1/2” tall and 8 1/2” across at widest point.
Repeat rounds 13-17 once, then repeat rounds 13-16, and move to band.
Band:
Round 1: ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sc3tog, *sc in next 6 sts, sc3tog; repeat from * around, final sc3tog will be worked across last st of round and first 2 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (63)
Round 2: ch 1, BPsc around first st, FPsc around next st, BPsc around next 2 sts, FPsc around next st, sc in top of sc3tog, *BPsc around next st, FPsc around next st, BPsc around next 2 sts, FPsc around next st, sc in top of sc3tog; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPsc. (63)
In the next round you will be working post stitches every so often around the FPtr stitches that run down the sides of the hat, and which you made in your last repeat of round 16.
Round 3: ch 1, *FPdc around FPtr 3 rounds below, sc in next st, FPsc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, FPsc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (63)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Child’s Size Hat:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6)
You may work the following round as regular sc, or you can work them as center sc to make things a little more special.
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, small puff st in first st, ch 1, *small puff st in next st, ch 1; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first puff st. (12 small puff sts, 12 ch-1 sps)
Round 4: ch 1, *sk st, 3 sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (36)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, *sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (9 5-dc shells, 9 sc)
Round 6: ch 1, *sk st, working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next dc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPhdc. (45)
We will be increasing in the following round, but one of the increase stitches will be worked around the sc from round 5, and the other will be worked in the top of round 6, just behind where the FPdc is sitting. Place stitch markers every 5th stitch to help you keep track of your increases and not skip any stitches.
One more note, to get your post stitches to lay flatter, work through the 2 loops that are at the front of the stitch. It’s essentially working through the front half of the stitch and isn’t so bulky.
Round 7: ch 1, *FPdc around sc in round 5, sc in marked st and in next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to FPhdc. (54)
Gauge check: circle should measure 4” across.
In the following round you will be working puff stitches. You will want to make them very short—no higher than a hdc stitch. If you make them taller they will bulge out and look strange, so when you draw up a loop try to keep it at the height of a sc and then when you finish the stitch it should be at that hdc height.
Keep very relaxed tension when making the chs between the puffs in the following round and whenever you see this round repeat. If you have tight tension you may wish to ch 2 instead. If you do not keep relaxed tension the hat will get very tight in these sections.
Round 8: ch 2, *FPdc around FPdc in prev round, ch 1, [puff stitch in next st, ch 1, sk st] 3 times; repeat from * around Join with sl st to first FPdc. (27 puff sts, 9 FPdc, 36 ch-1 sps)(72 sts total)
Gauge check: circle should measure 5” across.
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPdc, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 9: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 10: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (18 4-dc shells)
Round 11: ch 2, *FPdc around FPdc from round 8, {working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 2 dc sts, BPhdc around dc] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (81)
When working the following round, after you work a sc between the 2 BPhdc stitches, your next st will be hidden by that sc so just push it back and work the next sc into that stitch.
Round 12: ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, sc between the 2 BPhdc sts from prev round, *sc in next 9 sts, sc between the 2 BPhdc sts from prev round; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
From here on out, for the body of the hat, you will work FPtr stitches instead of FPdc stitches.
Round 13: ch 1, *FPtr around FPdc from round 11 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st in next st, ch 1, sk st] 4 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (36 puff sts, 9 FPtr, 45 ch- sps) (90 sts)
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 14: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Round 15: *sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (18 5-dc shells)
Round 16: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 13, [working across shell: BPhdc around next st, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next st] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (99)
Round 17: ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 4 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Round 18: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 16 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st in next st, ch 1, sk st] 4 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (36 puff sts, 9 FPtr, 45 ch-1 sps) (90 sts)
Hat should measure 5” tall and 10” across at widest point.
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 19: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Round 20: *sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (18 5-dc shells)
Round 21: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 18, [working across shell: BPhdc around next st, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next st] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (99)
To help you in the round following this one place a stitch marker in every sc stitch made in the top of a FPtr stitch. The next time you make FPtr stitches they will be hovering in front of this stitch. You will need to account for that when working the puff stitches in a future round repeat.
Round 22: ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 4 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Repeat rounds 18-22 once, then repeat rounds 18-21 once.
Band:
We will now be reducing the circumference of the hat a little so that it doesn’t slide off the head of the person wearing it. There are a couple of options:
This pattern is designed as a slouchy hat for kids, but because of that it is large enough to fit an adult like a beanie. The adult beanie band is looser than the child’s slouchy hat band. Choose which ending you want below:
Child’s slouchy hat band, and Adult beanie band.
Child’s slouchy hat band:
Round 1: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc4tog, *sc in next 7 sts, sc4tog; repeat from * around, sc in final 3 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPtr from round 2 rounds below, [BPsc around next st, FPsc around next st] 3 times, BPsc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
Round 3: ch 1, *sc in top of FPdc from prev round, [sc in next st, FPsc around next st] 3 times sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
Round 4: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc from round 2 rounds below, [sc in next st, FPsc around next st] 3 times sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (72)
If you don’t want a very wide band you can stop here, or you may repeat rounds 3 and 4 one more time for a slightly wider band.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Adult beanie band:
This opening is as wide as the opening on the adult slouchy hat pattern and looks the same.
Round 1: ch 1, ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in final 3 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (81)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPtr, [BPsc around next 2 sts, FPsc around next st] 2 times, BPsc around next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (81)
Round 3: ch 1, *sc in top of FPdc, [sc in next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc from prev round] 2 times, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (81)
Round 4: ch 1, FPdc around FPdc from round 2, [sc in next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc from prev round] 2 times, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (81)
If you want a longer band repeat round 3 and 4 one more time.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Adult Size Slouch Hat:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6)
You may work the following round as regular sc, or you can work them as center sc to make things a little more special.
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, small puff stitch in first st, ch 1, *small puff st in next st, ch 1; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first puff st. (12 small puff sts, 12 ch-1 sps)
Round 4: ch 1, *[sk st, 3 sc in ch-1 sp] 2 times, sk st, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (32)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, *sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8 5-dc shells, 8 sc)
Round 6: ch 1, *sk st, working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next dc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPhdc. (40)
We will be increasing in the following round, but one of the increase stitches will be worked around the sc from round 5, and the other will be worked in the top of round 6, just behind where the FPdc is sitting. Place stitch markers every 5th stitch to help you keep track of your increases and not skip any stitches.
One more note, to get your post stitches to lay flatter, work through the 2 loops that are at the front of the stitch. It’s essentially working through the front half of the stitch and isn’t so bulky.
Round 7: ch 1, *FPdc around sc in round 5, sc in marked st and in next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to FPdc. (40 sc, 8 FPdc) (48 sts total)
Gauge check: circle should measure 4” across.
In the following round you will be working puff stitches. You will want to make them very short—no higher than a hdc stitch. If you make them taller they will bulge out and look strange, so when you draw up a loop try to keep it at the height of a sc and then when you finish the stitch it should be at that hdc height.
Keep very relaxed tension when making the chains between the puffs in the following round and whenever you see this round repeat. If you have tight tension you may wish to ch 2 instead. If you do not keep relaxed tension the hat will get very tight in these sections.
Round 8: ch 1, *FPtr around FPdc in prev round, ch 1, [puff stitch in next st, ch 1, sk st] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (24 puff sts, 8 FPtr, 32 ch-1 sps)(64 sts total)
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 9: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (64)
Gauge check: circle should measure 5” across. (Yes, this is different from the other sizes)
In the following round you will be creating shells. There should be 2 shells in every section between the FPdc stitches of earlier rounds. You will work the slip stitches between each shell in the sc that’s directly above your post stitch, and in the sc that is directly above the 3rd puff from round 8.
Round 10: *sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (16 5-dc shells)
Round 11: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 8, [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 dc sts, BPhdc around dc] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (88)
Round 12: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc between the 2 BPhdc sts from prev round, *sc in next 11 sts, sc between the 2 BPhdc sts from prev round; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (96)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 11 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st in next st, ch 1, sk st] 5 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (40 puff sts, 8 FPtr, 48 ch-1 sps) (96 sts)
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 14: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (96)
Round 15: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (24 4-dc shells)
Round 16: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 13, [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 2 dc sts, BPhdc around dc] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (104)
Round 17: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 5 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (96)
Round 18: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 16 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st in next st, ch 1, sk st] 5 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (40 puff sts, 8 FPtr, 48 ch-1 sps) (96 sts)
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 19: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (96)
Round 20: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (24 4-dc shells)
Round 21: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 18, working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 2 dc sts, BPhdc around dc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (104)
Round 22: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 5 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (96)
Gauge check: Hat should measure 11” wide by 6” tall.
Repeat rounds 18-22 2 times, then repeat rounds 18-21 once.
Band:
Round 1: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, *sc in next 7 sts, [sc2tog] 3 times; repeat from * around, sc in last 3 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (80)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPtr from round 2 rounds below, [BPsc around next st, FPsc around next st] 4 times, BPsc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (80)
Round 3: ch 1, *sc in top of FPdc from prev round, [sc in next st, FPsc around next st] 4 times sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (80)
Round 4: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc from round 2 rounds below, [sc in next st, FPsc around next st] 4 times sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (80)
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 one more time (or more if you want a wider band).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Adult Sized Hat – Extra Slouchy:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (6)
You may work the following round as regular sc, or you can work them as center sc to make things a little more special.
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (12)
Round 3: ch 1, small puff stitch in first st, ch 1, *small puff stitch in next st, ch 1; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first puff st. (12 small puff sts, 12 ch-1 sps)
Round 4: ch 1, *sk st, 3 sc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (36)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, *sc in next st, sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (9 5-dc shells, 9 sc)
Round 6: ch 1, *sk st, working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next dc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPhdc. (45)
We will be increasing in the following round, but one of the increase stitches will be worked around the sc from round 5, and the other will be worked in the top of round 6, just behind where the FPdc is sitting. Place stitch markers every 5th stitch to help you keep track of your increases and not skip any stitches.
One more note, to get your post stitches to lay flatter, work through the 2 loops that are at the front of the stitch. It’s essentially working through the front half of the stitch and isn’t so bulky.
Round 7: ch 1, *FPdc around sc in round 5, sc in marked st and in next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to FPdc. (54)
Gauge check: circle should measure 4” across.
In the following round you will be working puff stitches. You will want to make them very short—no higher than a hdc stitch. If you make them taller they will bulge out and look strange, so when you draw up a loop try to keep it at the height of a sc and then when you finish the stitch it should be at that hdc height.
Keep very relaxed tension when making the chains between the puffs in the following round and whenever you see this round repeat. If you have tight tension you may wish to ch 2 instead. If you do not keep relaxed tension the hat will get very tight in these sections.
Round 8: ch 1, *FPtr around FPdc in prev round, ch 1, [puff stitch in next st, ch 1, sk st] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (27 puff sts, 9 FPtr, 36 ch-1 sps)(72 sts total)
Gauge check: circle should measure 5” across.
Round 9: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (72)
In the following round you will be creating shells. There should be 2 shells in every section between the FPdc and FPtr stitches of earlier rounds. You will work the slip stitches between each shell in the sc that’s directly above your post stitch, and in the sc that is directly above the 3rd puff from round 8.
Round 10: *sk st, 5 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (18 5-dc shells)
Round 11: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 8, [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 dc sts, BPhdc around dc] 2 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (99)
When working the following round after you work a sc between the 2 BPhdc stitches, your next st will be hidden by that sc so just push it back and work the next sc into that stitch.
Round 12: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc between the 2 BPhdc sts from prev round, *sc in next 11 sts, sc between the 2 BPhdc sts from prev round; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (108)
Round 13: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 11 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st in next st, ch 1, sk st] 5 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (45 puff sts, 9 FPtr, 54 ch-1 sps) (108 sts)
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 14: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (108)
Round 15: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (27 4-dc shells)
Round 16: ch 1, FPtr around FPtr from round 13 (3 rounds below), [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 2 sts, BPhdc around next dc] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (117)
Round 17: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 5 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (108)
Round 18: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 16 (2 rounds below), ch 1, sk st, [puff st in next st, ch 1, sk st] 5 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (45 puff sts, 9 FPtr, 54 ch-1 sps) (108 sts)
In the following round you will be working in each of the FPtr, puff sts, and ch-1 sps.
Round 19: ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc. (108)
Round 20: *sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, sl st in next st; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (27 4-dc shells)
Round 21: ch 1, *FPtr around FPtr from round 18 (3 rounds below), [working across shell: BPhdc around dc, BPsc around next 3 sts, BPhdc around next dc] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPtr. (117)
Round 22: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in last 5 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (108)
Repeat rounds 18-22 2 times, then repeat rounds 18-21 once.
When you are done with this hat you will have completed 264 puffs! That’s a whole lot of the little beans, and if you want to celebrate the end of so many of them I won’t blame you in the least!
Band:
You will now be reducing your stitch count from 117 to 81. If you need more room, circumference-wise you may follow option 2 and reduce the opening from 117 to 90 stitches.
Option 1:
Round 1: ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, *sc in next 5 sts, [sc2tog] 4 times; repeat from * around, sc in last 2 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (81)
Round 2: ch 1, FPdc around FPtr, [BPsc around next 2 sts, FPsc around next st] 2 times, BPsc around next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (81)
Round 3: ch 1, *sc in top of FPdc, [sc in next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc from prev round] 2 times, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (81)
Round 4: ch 1, FPdc around FPdc from round 2, [sc in next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc from prev round] 2 times, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (81)
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 one more time (or more if you want a wider band).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Option 2:
Round 1: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, *sc in next 7 sts, [sc2tog] 3 times; repeat from * around, sc in last 2 sts of round, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Round 2: ch 1, *FPdc around FPtr from round 2 rounds below, [BPsc around next st, FPsc around next st] 4 times, BPsc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (90)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in in top of FPdc, *[sc in next st, FPsc around next FPsc] 4 times, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Round 4: ch 1, *FPdc around FPdc from round 2, *[sc in next st, FPsc around next FPsc] 4 times, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (90)
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 one more time (or more if you want a wider band).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
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