You’ve run into a dilemma. You‘ve discovered some beautiful crochet design on Pinterest or Ravelry, but alas, you don’t know what the the terms are or how to read a crochet pattern, and the designer hasn’t put out a video, or step-by-step picture tutorial. What are you going to do? Mope? Of course not, because that’s not the kind of person you are, you fierce, strong, determined crochet gal, you! This how-to guide is going to open a whole new world to you, and I can’t wait to hear all about your successes! If you’re a beginner, or new to crochet and came here to learn how to read a crochet pattern, you’re in the right place! Even if you’ve been crocheting for 20 years, and have finally decided now is the time to begin reading crochet patterns, don’t worry–I’ve got you covered. Grab a hot cup of coffee or tea, pull up a chair and get cozy (I always learn better when I’m relaxed, and chances are that you will too). Let’s start with some crochet pattern reading basics, before we dive into the terms themselves. These are a few things I wish someone had told me when I was learning to read patterns.
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It’s important to remember,
-There is no right or wrong way to write a pattern
This is a source of frustration for many crocheters, but the fact is that patterns differ slightly from designer to designer, and even from magazine to magazine.* The stitch abbreviations are often the same (see the bottom of this post for differences in US vs. UK terms), but elements such as pattern repeats may be designated differently. Most reputable designers and magazines will have a crochet terms glossary at the beginning of the pattern. Look at this when in doubt.
-Becoming efficient at reading a crochet pattern takes a while
Like any skill, reading a crochet pattern will take some time to master. You may be able to crochet “Advanced” level patterns by looking at a video or picture tutorial, but grant yourself some grace if you struggle to read an “Easy” level pattern on your first try. We all have to start somewhere.
-Commas are your friend
I’ll let you in on a little secret that I wish I had known when I first started out: if you’re struggling to read a crochet pattern, don’t look at the whole row or round instruction at once. Take things one comma at a time. If the pattern designer has a sequence written out such as this “sc, ch 2, sk st, sc” look at the commas, then do the step before the comma, then look for the next coma and do the step before it; little-bitty baby steps. Again, it may be frustrating if you can quickly follow a video, but if you stick with this, you’ll pick up how to read a crochet pattern in several tries.
First things first
At the beginning of a pattern you will see several headings containing yarn, stitch, measurement, and gauge information. It is tempting to skip over these to get to the pattern, but restrain yourself, look them over, and you will likely end up saving yourself hours of frustration, and/or a ruined garment!
Skill ratings/levels:
This is how difficult an item is to crochet. There are 4 classifications: Beginner, Easy, Intermediate, and Advanced. “Beginner” patterns will often use a couple of basic stitches. “Easy” designs expand to include simple patterns made from a variety of stitches, and may include color changes and slightly more complex increases or decreases. “Intermediate” includes more difficult color work, complex stitches, or garment shaping. “Advanced” patterns may combine even more of these techniques, often in different ways, into one project.
Materials needed to complete the project:
Yarn type, and yardage, plus any notions you’ll need, such as ribbon, or buttons.
Stitches used:
A glossary of the crochet stitches you’ll need to complete the project (we’re almost to the part that will explain the terms themselves, so hang in there for just a few more minutes). Special stitches may also be listed in this section, or listed separately.
Specialty stitches:
Sometimes a pattern will have special stitches that they may not write out completely each time they show up in the pattern, as this would take too much room. Instead the designer will have the stitch mentioned in the terms glossary at the beginning of the pattern. Here are a few types that you may run into. Follow the designer’s instructions for forming these stitches as they can vary from pattern to pattern.
Puff
Shell
Bobble
V-stitch
Gauge information:
Gauge is the tension a crocheter needs to use to achieve the garment size. Making a gauge swatch is the most important, and unfortunately, the most neglected step of any crochet pattern. If you don’t want to end up frogging your entire project, and wasting valuable time (and brain cells), make a gauge swatch. You’ll thank me later. Typically, most gauges swatches are made by crocheting a square in the indicated stitch, measuring at least 4” across, by however many rows in height the designer specifies. If you crochet tightly, you may need to go up a hook size or two to match the designers gauge, inversely, if you have relaxed tension, you may need to go down a hook size or two.
Measurements:
This section will list the finished garment size or sizes.
Additional notes or assembly instructions:
Some pieces require additional instructions to put them together. This information may be listed near the top of a pattern, or near the end. Pay special attention to these sections. They will save you hours of time and frustration!
Helpful hint: Remember that a pattern is a “pattern” (remember making designs with those geometrically shaped blocks in kindergarten?) Most patterns marked “Beginner” or “Easy” will have specific (and predictable) pattern repeats or increases . For instance a hat that starts out with 12 double crochet stitches will usually increase by 12 stitches in each increase round. Likewise, a basket that starts out with 6 single crochet stitches should also increase by 6 each round. I cover stitch counts a little later on in this article.
Anatomy of a stitch:
Post – this is the main “body” of the stitch.
Front Loop – Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”. The front loop is the loop closest to you.
Back Loop – Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”. The back loop is the the loop farthest away from you.
3rd Loop (only on a half double crochet stitch) – This loop is more visible at the back of the stitch, but some patterns will ask you to work in the 3rd loop at the front. This will pop the top of the stitch forward (or backward) and make a ridge that looks knit.
Many crochet pattern terms are acronyms! This makes it easier to understand since “sc” stands for “single crochet”, and “hdc” stands for half double crochet. You may also see the first two letters used instead as in ch (for chain) or tr (for treble crochet). Patterns can be worked in rows (back and forth) or rounds. Rounds can either be joined, usually with a slip stitch, or continuous (don’t forget to use stitch markers to hold your spot!).
(Note: This guide only covers crochet terms and assumes you already have knowledge of how to crochet the most common stitches: chain, single crochet, half-double crochet, double crochet, etc. If you’re looking to learn how to crochet, you need to hop on over to YouTube and search for “learn how to crochet“. There are many good videos that will show you how.)
Common US Crochet Terms:
ch = chain
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space (can also be written as ch-1 sp, ch-2 sp, etc.)
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
st/sts = stitch/stitches
tog = together
sk st = skip stitch
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
YO = yarn over
BLO/BL = back loop only (looking at the top of the stitch, you will see two “loops”. If you see this in a pattern, only work stitches in the back loop
FLO/FL = front loop only (looking at the top of the stitch, you will see two “loops”. If you see this in a pattern, only work stitches in the front loop
Magic Circle/Magic Ring = This is a special slip knot that you work your stitches in when beginning projects in the round (like hats). Here’s a video from Hopeful Honey that explains how to form it.
You may also run into some stitches that combine terms, such as a FP (Front Post) or BP (Back Post) stitch with a dc (double crochet), hdc (half double crochet), or sc (single crochet) stitch:
FPdc = front post double crochet. Work stitch around the front of the post. Can also be FPtr, FPhdc, or FPsc.
BPdc = back post double crochet. Work stitch around the back of the post. Can also be BPtr, BPhdc, or BPsc
Decrease stitches are often written as follows: (Note: You may also see something like “dec in every 5th st” to mark a decrease in every 5th stitch.)
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together. This decrease tells you to crochet two single crochet stitches together. You may also run into sc3tog or sc4tog, etc.
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together. This is also a decrease, but with double crochet stitches. You may also see dc3tog or dc4tog, etc.
tr2tog = treble crochet 2 together. Same idea as above, but with treble crochet stitches.
CL = cluster. Similar to a bobble, this is a group of stitches worked into one single stitch or space. They are worked in the same way a dc3tog or dc5tog is worked (crocheted half way before starting the next stitch) but will only be in one single stitch–they are NOT a decrease!
Sometimes there are symbols in the middle of a pattern:
* = repeat the instructions as directed
* to * = repeat the instructions inside the asterisks as many times as directed, or until the end of a row or round. Can also be in the middle of a row/round. Brackets [ ] or Parentheses ( ) may also be used in place of asterisks.
, = a pause between steps. If you see “ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in the next, sk 2 sts, sc in the next”, don’t get overwhelmed. Each comma is a place to pause before moving on to the next stitch. First, ch 1, then single crochet in the next 3 stitches, skip 2 stitches, and work 5 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 2 more stitches, and single crochet in the next stitch.
And, you’ll often notice numbers at the end of most well-written patterns. They may or may not be in parentheses. These are your stitch counts for the current row or round. For example, here is row 4 from my Primrose and Proper super scarf:
Row 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, 2 dc in first ch 2 space from previous row, *3 dc in next ch 2 space; repeat from * across, in the final ch 2 space put 2 dc, and 1 dc in the top of the ch 2 from previous row. (300 [192, 228])
The numbers at the end show the stitch count for the instructions as written (300), then it also shows two other counts if you want to make the scarf in different lengths [192] and [228]. When making garments you may see 4 or 5 different numbers at the end of each row. Each of these numbers is for a different size. Usually it will go (small, medium, large, XL, XXL), so if you’re making a “medium” just make sure your counts are always matching up with the 2nd number from the left. The designer should note the sizes beforehand to make it clearer (this is another reason to read the information at the beginning of a pattern).
UK and English terms are different!
If you follow a pattern from a UK designer, you will quickly notice some differences in terms!
There is no “sc”, but you will see htr and dtr, so what do these mean?
Some basic US terms, and their UK equivalent:
sc = dc
hdc = htr (half treble crochet)
dc = tr
tr = dtr (double treble)
If you want a more comprehensive list of US/UK terms, head on over to the Craft Yarn Council’s website, and check out their list.
A Few Words on Multiples
This is a slightly more advanced technique, but one that I wish I had known more about when I first started crocheting, so I’m including it here in the hope that it will help you too.
Sometimes you will run across a scarf or afghan pattern with the note “worked in multiples of 6 + 2” or something similar. This is helpful because with this information you can size the pattern up or down based on your needs! All you need to do is find the gauge, then do some simple multiplication, then add the required number of “extra” stitches (in this example, 2). If you had a queen-sized afghan that you wanted to make into a baby blanket, and it was written in multiples of 6 +2, you would first find the gauging information. Let’s say, for example it’s 12 dc stitches in 4”. You will take that number (12) and multiply it by 3 to find out how many stitches are in 1 foot/12 inches (12×3 =36). Once you know how many stitches are in a foot (36 in our case), you can multiply that number by the number of feet (in width or height) that you need your baby blanket to be. I’ll use 3 ft as an example: 36×3=108. So, your starting row needs to have 108 chains (conveniently, 108 is a multiple of 6), plus 2 more chains, for a total of 110. It is important to note that some people include the turning chain in this multiple count, and others do not. Most of the time it should be included.
Now that your brain is bursting with information, why not try out your new skills on my beginner-friendly ”Sashay Around” cowl. It has pictures, and also makes a great project for kids.
Thank you so much for stopping in today! If you enjoyed this article, please consider following me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram, and Ravelry for more crochet tips and tricks. as well as free crochet patterns
*Take this moment to visualize a length of yarn, now imagine its flexibility. Be like the yarn–embrace flexibility. Ahhh…….
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Umm, ok…Can someone help me out of the tangle I’m in? Anyone?
Question I have a pattern that states
(dc(ch,dc) 4 times. At the end of the end that pattern states you should have 12 5dc shells.
Why is this 5 and not 4?
Thanks for your assistence.
I don’t know for sure without looking at the pattern notes, but my guess is that the first dc is counted along with the (ch,dc) sequence which is repeated 4 times, for a total of 5 dc per shell.
what does Round 1: ch5, Inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, sc 2, 3sc in the last ch. {14} andRound 2: Inc, sc 4, [Inc] 3 times, sc 4, [Inc] 2 times. {20}mean? please answer me .
Basically you will be forming an oval here. First you’ll chain 5, then inc (increase) in the 2nd chain from your hook. An increase is usually 2 of the designated stitches, and from reading the pattern they are most likely to be sc stitches (single crochet). Then you’ll single crochet in the next 2 chains, and put 5 single crochet in the last chain. After that you will continue working the rest of the round around on the other side of the chain. Once you complete that round you should have 14 stitches. It’s similar for the next round: you’ll increase (that’s 2 single crochet in the same stitch), single crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work 3 increase stitches in a row ([inc] 3 times). I think you can probably figure out the rest of the round from there. 🙂 Good luck on your project!
My pattern asks me to join next color in front barof first st, ch 1 , hdc in same front bar as joining. I know exactly where the front bar is but since I have never hdc, I cannot figure out if I hook onto the string or go over it or under it. It’s not like haven’t a v- chain where you have something to grab. I can’t find any tutorial on how to do it. Thanks
Hi Jamie, without seeing the pattern first I don’t know exactly what is going on here. It may possibly be creating a “Y” shaped stitch?
Hello,
What does ch ( counts as dc) mean?
What does 1 dc in each sc and ch-1 sp to end of row mean?
Thank you!!
Hi Brittany,
In the first one, the designated chain (ch) counts as a double crochet for whatever the pattern is that you’re working. The second one is asking you to put one double crochet stitch into each single crochet, AND also a double crochet into each chain 1 space (possibly the “single crochet, chain 1” sequence was something that was done in the previous row), and continue doing that until you arrive at the end of the designated row.
I hope that helps!
What does sc in ch-4 sp means? Is a single crochet in the chain 5? Tks
Hi Wanda,
The first part tells you to put a single crochet in a chain 4 space, so at some earlier point in the pattern you were probably chaining 4. I don’t know exactly what you mean by “is a single crochet in the chain 5”, unless you started a row/round with a chain 5 that counts as a sc+ch-4 so, then you would continue the pattern as written, working into that space if directed to.
I hope that helps!
Kristen,
Thank you so much for this information. Having not done any crocheting for over 20 years, I can related to many of your comments.
I am crocheting a Jack O’Pumpkin candy bowl and having problems deciphering some of the directions for the sides and hope that you can help me.
Round 1: (outside : Ch 1, working in back loop only, sc in each st to end, join. Note: This is where you will attach the legs. (40)
Round 2: Turn to work from inside, ch 1 [hdc in next st, sl st in next st ], repeat to end, join. (40)
Round 3: This is the row I am having problems with says – Ch1, [sc 4 sts. 2 sc in next st]. repeat between [ ] to end, join (48)
Any assistance you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
Sharolyn
Hi Sharolyn,
Welcome back to the world of crochet!
Round 3 is an increase round. You’ll chain 1 at the beginning of the round, then place 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches. Next, you’ll place 2 single crochet (your increase) in the following stitch. After that you’ll keep repeating that sequence around, and finally join the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch. 🙂
I hope that helps you make sense of things!
Happy crocheting!
My poncho pattern says ch 64 beg cl in 4th ch from hook sk next 2 chs , sc in next ch , ch5, sk next5 chs. sc in next ch, sk next 2 chs, cl in next ch, rep from *3(4) times, turn. (5(6)cls, 8 (10) sc, 4 (5) ch- sps)
I don’t understand how to do the (5)(6) cls, (10) sc, 5) ch-sps?
Hi Janice,
Those are the number of clusters, single crochets, and chain spaces you should have at the end of your row or round. Those numbers are just to help you keep track of what you’ve done. 🙂
Hi,
I’m following a pattern… I’ve made a ring, I’ve done a round of sc and close with a slip stitch…
What I’m not getting is the next row I have to start with a sc, then work 8 popcorn stitches and finish with Ch 2, close round with dc in 1st sc
I’ve only ever closed using slip stitches, I can see that I have to dc in first sc but how does that close a ring?
Any help would be great thanks
Hi Alexandra, it sounds like this pattern is worked in “unjoined rounds”–essentially a spiral (your join will not be “flat”, but tilt upward as the new row begins). Work the stitches where the pattern tells you, and keep a stitch marker handy to mark the beginning of your rounds. This will make keeping track of stitch counts easier. 🙂
I’m new to crochet and would be happy if you could please explain this line to me:
Rounds 7-8: SC around (30 SC)
Does this mean that for round 7 there are 30 SCs and for round 8 there are also 30 SCs? This means 60 in total.
Or
Does it mean it is 30 SCs in total for round 7 and 8?
Thank you!
Hi Bel,
Rounds 7 will contain 30 sc, and round 8 will also contain 30 sc.
Q: Pattern reads Chain 2 (counts as first dc)…then * 3 dc, 2 dc in the next, repeat from *
So do I, chain 2, then 2 dc in the next two chains, then 2 dc in the next stitch, THEN 3dc, 2dc thereafter?
Or, chain 2, 3dc 2dc thereafter?
Ugh, please help! Thank you in advance! 🙂
Hi Kathleen,
The asterisks tell you to repeat that section down the row, so, following exactly what you wrote above, you would begin the row by chaining 2, then you would work 3 dc in the next stitch, 2 dc into the stitch following that, and continue working 3 dc in the next stitch, 2 dc in the stitch following that until you came to the end of the row, or round: 3 dc stitches, 2 dc stitches, 3 dc stitches, 2 dc stitches, etc. Without seeing the pattern it almost sounds as if you are working in the round or creating a curve with this stitch sequence. Good luck!
You are a gem! Thank you so much for taking the time to help me!
You’re very welcome!
Hi kirsten,
I am looking at a pattern below.
Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from
hook and in next 5 ch, *ch 2, skip next
3 ch, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch, ch 2, skip
next 3 ch, sc in next 5 ch; repeat from *
across to last ch, sc in last ch, turn—70
sc and 27 ch-2 spaces.
What do 27 ch-2 spaces means? Does this mean 27 sc in every chain 2 space?
Thanks,
Lin
When you follow the instructions in row 1, you will end up with a grand total of 70 single crochet stitches, and 27 chain-2 spaces in that row. The information after the dash is simply to help you keep track of the stitches you just made. 🙂 Usually that information will be put in parentheses instead of after a dash to better note that it is separate and not part of the row instructions themselves.
Brilliant, thanks Kirsten for your help.
This completely makes sense.
Lin
You’re welcome! I’m glad it helped! 🙂
This is from row 2 of Lattice Weave Throw. Please help. I love the pattern from Red Heart. .
How do read the *, **, then * once more, then repeat from * to **.
Hi Debbie,
Basically those asterisks are there to help with organizing the repeats of certain sections of the throw. You will repeat from the * to the final”;” which is at the end of the Lattice Panel section. Then you’ll repeat from the * to the final “;” again, ending with the “dc in next 28 ch” section between the * and the **, after you are done with that you should have 5 stitches left in the row, which you’ll work the double crochets into.
What does like 3rd row: ch2 – alternate *1 increase – 1dc* close with sl st.
4th row: ch2 – alternate *1 increase – 2dc*. Can not figure this out. Please help!!!
Hi Karen,
You will start out row 3 by chaining 2, then you will alternate increases (an increase is 2 of the designated stitches in the same stitch unless the pattern indicates otherwise) with a single dc in the next stitch. You will repeat this sequence to the end of the row. The 4th row is the same idea but you will alternate 2 dc in the same stitch followed by a single dc in the next 2 stitches to the end of the row.
Good luck!
Hi, I am working on a hat pattern which states putting a row of fpsc around dc of the previous row but it states to join with a slip stitch to the first stitch then says to back slip stitch so not to crochet in the posts. I’m not sure what the last instruction means
Hi Sandy,
To me it sounds like the designer is wanting you to slip stitch back into the previous stitch after you join the round. If you have extra information on what happens in the next round that you can share here it may explain why you were supposed to work backward and not work into the post stitches. 🙂
I am working on a sleeve in a free pattern entitled; “Sunday’s Best” from Annie’s Attic. Size 2 toddler sweater. Can’t figure this out and almost down with sweater. . Rep rows 5-12 consecutively, and at the same time, inc 1 st at each end of this row and every 6th row 1 time, then every 4th row 2 time. ending with 38 sts at the end of last row.
Please help me.
Hi Sarah,
You will repeat rows 5-12 and increase (put two of the stitches the pattern asks for in one stitch) at the end of whatever row this was written for, plus increase on the 6th row from this one one time. After that you will increase at the end of every 4th row 2 times. This should put you at 38 stitches total.
I hope that helps!
Hi, what does it mean if your pattern says rnd 10-11: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc?
Does it mean that you should follow the instructions for both round 10 and 11?
Hi Tanya,
Yes, that is correct. 🙂
Hi, Kirsten. Thank you for this excellent post! I’m a reasonably experienced knitter but found this crochet pattern that looked fun: https://www.lovecrochet.com/us/kahlo-crop-top-in-paintbox-yarns-cotton-dk-downloadable-pdf?om_campaign=om_796c02568e5a_67_vrj72mmh&om_send=867d46fd7e3647859eb9ed706a981044&omhide=true&urm_content=ROW_split-A&utm_campaign=lc_na_pp_pattern_free_AUTOMATION&utm_content=ROW_split-A_LC_ROW_STAGE1&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Lovecrochet#kitbuilder-wrapper. Unfortunately, even to my untrained eye, the pattern seems to have a number of errors, though I muddled my way through until I got to the following inscrutable instruction: “ch 1, turn, dc (sc) on wrong side over tr (dc) sideways right to left over tr (dc) below.” Does “over dc” mean over the dc post??? I’d be so grateful if you could shed some light on what it means. I’d hate to have to abandon it and waste these pretty yarns!
Hi Erin,
It could mean over, or even possibly around the dc stitch. However, in this case since it is a more complex design, and you have questions about the overall accuracy, I would contact the designer or pattern company to find out exactly what they want you to do in that section.
I don’t understand how to do the multiples of 8 +1 for example. I googled it and everyone shows this. I don’t get it. Wouldn’t you just chain 9? Also afgan is 170. How do I size it down for an infant?
0
00000000
Hi Nancy,
This is going to be a bit of a long reply, but hopefully it will help you make sense of things! Usually with multiples of a number plus 1 are figured like this. I’ll use your 8+1 as an example: Your beginning chain needs to be a multiple of 8, the closest amount of times 8 goes into 170 is 21, so you figure out 8×21=168, then you’ll add 1 additional chain for a total of 169 (I’m not sure where the number 170 comes from if they are asking you to work the afghan pattern in multiples of 8+1, and would need to have a bit more information about it). The additional chain may be a turning chain, or an ending stitch at the end of a row that completes a row, since every repeat doesn’t need a turning chain or an ending stitch you have the +1 instead of a multiple of 9. This is only part of the equation though! The sizing is done through gauge. Baby blankets vary in dimension so for this example I’m going to show you how to figure out a 36″ by 36″ receiving blanket size. Most crochet patterns will have gauge information written in. This is how many stitches are in 4″ (typically, unless otherwise noted). You will take that number and multiply it by 3 to figure out how many stitches are in a foot (4″x 3 = 12″), and then multiply that number by 3 to see how many stitches would be in 36″–the size of your receiving blanket. You would then chain the number that is a multiple of 8 that is closest to the number of stitches in 36″, and finally add 1.
And finally, the illustration showing the O’s is most likely related to crochet chart symbols. In crochet charts a “o” stands for a chain. A “o” stacked on top of another “o” usually denotes a turning chain.
Good luck on your project!
Thanks for your help. It makes more sense now.
Wonderful! I’m glad it helped you!
Hi there, I’m doing the edging of a blanket and one round I’m stuck on has a ‘decrease’ at the of of this in brackets: [(dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp, (ch 2, dc in same sp) 3 times, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-3 sp, decrease] 10 times. I understand everything but what it’s asking me to do with the decrease. It doesn’t make sense to me to decrease the last dc, ch 2, dc
Hi Marcie,
The decrease at the end may be telling you to do a dc2tog (which is a typical decrease involving dc stitches) after doing the “(dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-3 sp”. It’s hard to say though without seeing the entire pattern.
Thanks for your fast reply. I just studied the pattern a little more and found specific instructions for that decrease stitch. I’m good to go… can’t believe I missed that!
Great! I’m glad you were able to get it figured out!
Hi Kirsten, The gauge for a pattern I’m working on says 20 stitches and 7 rows = 4 in in pattern.
The pattern is several rows of V stiches and then one of chain 5 sc. Do I work the swatch with the row of ch 5? or just the V stitches??
Hi Rhodeena,
Since it doesn’t say specifically what stitches you are to repeat to get the gauge, I’d send a message to the designer and ask them what stitches they are basing that gauge on.
Hi Kirsten
I am beginner and am learning to make a scarf. I am stuck with this pattern (shell pattern):
Ch 26.
1st row: (RS). (1 sc. Ch 3. 4 dc) in 2nd ch from hook. *Skip next 5 ch. (1 sc. Ch 3. 4 dc)
in next ch. Rep from * 3 times more. Turn.
2nd row: Ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5). *Skip next 4 dc. 1 sc in top of next ch 3.
Ch 5. Rep from * 3 times more. Skip next 4 dc. 1 sc in top of last ch 3. Turn.
3rd row: Ch 1. (1 sc. Ch 3. 4 dc) in first sc. *Skip next ch-5 sp. (1 sc. Ch 3. 4 dc) in
next sc. Rep from * 3 times more. Skip next 5 ch. 1 sc in 3rd ch of ch 8. Turn.
I am able to follow the first row but lost starting from row 2.
What does it mean by Ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5)? I don’t understand the instructions and hence I do not know where I should put in the stitches. Where do I do the 4dc and sc in top of next ch 3? What does it mean by top of next ch 3? Your help is appreciated, thanks!
Hi Gigi,
In this case the beginning chain 8 stands for a dc (as a chain 3) and then a chain 5. A chain 3 is often substituted for a dc at the beginning of a row or round. For round 2, after completing the ch 8, you will skip the 4 dc from the previous row and work a single crochet into the top of the ch 3 you made in row 1 (I’d interpret it as the 3rd ch out of the chain 3). After that you’ll chain 5, and then repeat from the * across. I hope that helps!
Good morning, I’m crocheting a dinosaur for my grandson. Round 8-14 says Work 1sc in every sc in the round without finishing every round, then work 1sc in each of the first 5 sts to end up mid on top of neck-now rounds beg here. I’m not sure if how the 5 extra stitches work here. Than you for your help
Hi Lupe,
For rounds 8-14 you will be working in unjoined rounds (aka. leave off the slip stitch and chain 1 that most patterns call for at the end of a round). Your stitches will spiral instead of having a “seam”. I’m not sure how many stitches are supposed to be in those rounds (maybe 10?) but after completing rounds 8-14 you will work 5 sc in a new round which should put you at the midway point on the neck, then you’ll begin working on the next part of the pattern.
When working in unjoined rounds it’s always a good idea to use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch of the round so you don’t lose track of where you are.
I hope this helps!