Winter officially arrived last week, and I’m surrounded by a wonderland of snow and ice! This event called for something warm, cozy, and a little bit girly (ok, a lot girly)! The Victorian Blush muffler is all of these things, and is guaranteed to keep you warm when the temperatures start dropping. It was about 28 degrees Fahrenheit when I took this picture, and my neck stayed toasty warm, while the rest of me froze. 😉
Part of this crochet pattern’s warmth comes from using a thicker, worsted weight yarn, and it’s lacy texture actually helps trap warm air, keeping you comfortable and looking cute at the same time. Win-win!
The details on this beautiful Victorian style neck warmer start at the back with the flower (the name of this cowl is actually inspired by a variety of peony!), then the sides are added one at a time. It is possible to make this longer if you wish, and I’ve included notes on how to do that, below.
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6mm (J) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
100 yards Caron One Pound in the color of your choice (They sold out of the color I used, but you may enjoy making it in a dark pink)
3 7/8” or 1” buttons. I believe mine were made by “Le Bouton”.
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
2 dc cluster = dc2tog in the same stitch.
FPsc = front post single crochet
BPsc = back post single crochet
FPhdc = front post half double crochet
After round 4 your circle should measure 3 1/4″ across. Your flower should measure 6 3/4″ across when it is completed before you start working on the “arms” of the muffler.
“Arms”: 12 stitches in 4″
6 ¾” tall by about 22″ long
-Caron One Pound is a thicker worsted weight yarn. If you substitute a thinner worsted weight such as Caron Simply Soft, your measurements will be off.
-If you want a looser piece, it is possible to make this longer by repeating rows 7-19 as many times as you want. Please work the final rows the same. You will need to increase your shell count accordingly.
ch 4, join to first ch with sl st, forming a circle
Round 1: ch 1, 12 sc in circle. Join with sl st to first sc (12)
Round 2: ch 1, 2 dc cluster in same stitch as join, ch 1 * 2 dc cluster, ch 1 in next stitch* Join with sl st to first dc cluster (24)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in top of dc cluster, 2 sc in ch 1 space from previous round *sc in top of dc cluster, 2 sc in ch 1 space from previous round* Join with sl st to first sc (36)
Round 4: [hdc, 2 dc] in first stitch, [2 dc, hdc] in the next, sl st in the next *[hdc, 2 dc] in first stitch, [2 dc, hdc] in the next, sl st in the next* (12 petals) Note: your edge will be rippled and not lay flat. This is ok.
Round 5: ch 2, skip stitch, BPsc around next 4 stitches, skip 3 stitches *BPsc around next 4 stitches, skip 3 stitches* Join with sl st to first BPsc (48)
Round 6: skip stitch, 5 dc in the next, skip stitch, sl st in the next *skip stitch, 5 dc in the next, skip stitch, sl st in the next* (12 shells)
Once you get to the end of the round, turn. You will be working this next part on the wrong side of the muffler
Row 7: ch 1, FPhdc around next 5 dc stitches (from a shell) skip the sl st, *FPhdc around next 5 dc stitches (from a shell) skip the sl st* repeat * to * 1 more time, ch 1, turn (15)
Row 8: 2dc cluster, ch 1, skip stitch *2 dc cluster, ch 1, skip stitch* when you get to the final stitch put a 2 dc cluster, ch 1, turn (15)
Row 9: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (15)
Repeat rows 8 and 9 one more time
Row 12: sc in first stitch, sc in next, skip stitch, 5 dc in next, skip stitch, sl st in the next, skip stitch, 5 dc in next, skip stitch, sl st in the next, skip stitch, 5 dc in next, skip stitch, sc in the next two stitches, ch 1, turn (4 sc, 3 shells)
Row 13: dc in first stitch, dc in next stitch, skip stitch FPsc around next 3 stitches, skip stitch, dc in next stitch (this will be the sl st between the shells) *skip stitch FPsc around next 3 stitches, skip stitch, dc in next stitch* dc in final stitch of row (15)
Repeat rows 12 and 13 one more time
Repeat rows 8 and 9 two more times
Rows 20-22: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (15)
Turn piece sideways and work this row along the side.
Row 23: work 5 shells along the side of the cowl, using the shells from round 6 as a guide. I skipped about 1/4” between slip stitches and 5 dc shells. Your final slip stitch should be between the shells from round 6.
Fasten off, and weave in ends
Your cowl should measure about 14” long at this point.
Turn cowl over so you are begin working round 7 on the back side.
Attach yarn to opposite side of flower, skipping 3 shells. This will be opposite the part you just completed. Repeat rows 7-19 one time, and then do one more repeat of rows 8 and 9. This will give you one more row 8-9 repeat than the other side of the cowl has.
Row 22: sc in each stitch across, ch 1 turn (15)
Row 23: sc in first 2 stitches, ch 3, sc in next 5 stitches, ch 3, sc in next 5 stitches, ch 3, sc in next stitch, sc2tog, ch 1, turn (14 sc, 3 ch-3 loops)
Row 24: sc in first stitch, skip stitch, 6 sc in ch-3 loop, skip stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, skip stitch, 6 sc in ch-3 loop, skip stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, 6 sc in ch-3 loop, skip stitch, sc in final stitch (26)
Turn and work next section down the side of the cowl.
Work 6 shells along the side of the cowl, using the shells from round 6 as a guide. I skipped about 1/4” between slip stitches and 5 dc shells. Your final slip stitch should be between the shells from round 6.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach yarn to other side of cowl closest to the flower, work 6 shells down the side.
Fasten off, weave in ends
Attach yarn to other unfinished side of cowl, closest to flower, work 5 shells along the edge, put 2-3 sc at the end to finish out the row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew 3 buttons to the first side of the muffler that you completed, on sc rows.
Wear and be cozy! Get compliments on flower at the back of muffler when you wear your hair up. Feel beautiful, because you are.
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