Crochet a highly textured flower square for your next afghan or blanket! This free pattern loosely resembles a Zinnia flower, and features lots of beautiful petals and cute bud accents.
Click here to add this to your Ravelry queue!
I love all the flower petal texture going on in this square! With how busy the stitches are this pattern lends itself well to solid colors, or a beautiful long striping yarn like Red Heart Ombré. I love both versions for different reasons.
I recommend that you start out with either the most saturated, or least saturated color of your ombré yarn. This way you can experience the full color transition over the course of the square. You can also “hack” your yarn to place the colors where you want them to be. I did that with the buds towards the outer edge of the square.
Because of all those lovely petals this square does require a bit of blocking to get it to lay flat. Maintaining relaxed tension on your center single crochet (waistcoat) stitches will also help to prevent excess puckering.
This beautiful Zinnia flower inspired square is part of the Moogly 2022 afghan CAL. You can see Tamara’s notes and find out more information here.
Difficulty:
Intermediate
Techniques used: magic circle, popcorn, picot single crochet, waistcoat stitch, spike stitch, working in back bar of single crochet
Materials Needed:
180-190 yards Red Heart With Love in “White”, or Red Heart Ombré in “Sea Coral” color of your choice
6mm hook, or hook needed to meet gauge
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch markers (optional)
Stitches Used:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
BPsc = back post single crochet
BPhdc = back post half double crochet
2dc cluster = dc2tog in same st
Additional Terms:
hdc in the 3rd loop = Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop. Click the link for a picture tutorial.
psc = picot single crochet – Instructions: insert hook, YO, draw up a loop, draw through 1 loop 3 times making a ch-3, YO, draw through both loops on hook. Pull your ch-3 sp towards the front of your work instead of pushing it toward the back.
Picot single crochet chain stitch = (psc ch st): insert hook through center of popcorn stitch, YO, draw up a loop, draw through 1 loop 3 times making a ch-3, YO, draw through both loops on hook. This is crocheted identically to the psc described above, but due to its positioning in the round the chain will not create a little picot. It will lie flat.
Popcorn stitch = popcorn – Instructions: work 5 dc in same st, take hook out of last dc just worked and put it through top of first dc, grab loop from 5th dc and pull it through the first dc.
sc spike st = with working yarn on hook, insert hook through designated st, yo and draw up a loop to height of active round, pull working yarn through both loops.
Back bar of sc – Instructions: Look at the back of the stitch and locate the short bar that runs horizontal. Work all stitches for that section into this bar.
Center sc = known as the “Waistcoat stitch”. Work a regular sc by inserting your hook in the center of the post, between the 2 vertical lines that the loop you draw up makes. Complete as you would a regular sc.
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp/sps = space/spaces
prev = previous
Gauge:
Piece should measure almost 5″ across after round 6.
Measurements:
12″ x 12″ after blocking
Additional Notes:
-ch-1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
-psc stitches should not have the picot pushed to the back. It should pop out the front.
-Relaxed tension is required for the center single crochet stitches to lay flat. Tight tension will make the piece pucker badly.
Zinnia Blossom 12-inch Square (US Terms):
Round 1: ch 1, [sc, psc] 4 times in magic circle, join with sl st to first sc. (8)
Round 2: ch 1, (psc, sc) in each st around, join with sl st to first psc. (16)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (16)
Round 4: ch 1, popcorn in first st, ch 1, *(popcorn in next st, ch 1); repeat from * around join with sl st to first dc of first popcorn st. (16 popcorn sts, 16 ch-1 sps)
Round 5: ch 1, *3 hdc in ch-1 sp, sk popcorn st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first hdc. (48)
Round 6: ch 1, working in 3rd loop of hdc, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first center sc. (60)
Round 7: ch 1, 2 center sc in first st, center sc in next 14 sts, *2 center sc in next st, center sc in next 14 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first center sc. (64)
If you have tight tension when making your center sc stitches your piece will most likely be a bit puckered. Even with very relaxed tension it may not really flatten out until the final rounds are added. As long as the piece is fairly easy to flatten out when set on a flat surface you should be fine, but watch that tension!
Round 8: ch 1, center sc in first st, sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st, *center sc in next st, sk st, 4 dc in next st, sk st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (16 shells, 16 center sc)
Round 9: ch 1, center sc in first st, working across shell: BPhdc around next st, BPsc around next st ch 1, BPsc around next st, BPhdc around next st, *center sc in next st, working across shell: BPhdc around next st, BPsc around next st, ch 1, BPsc around next st, BPhdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first center sc. (80)
Round 10: ch 1, center sc in first st, sk 2 sts, 6 dc in ch-1 sp, sk 2 sts, *center sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 6 dc in ch-1 sp, sk 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first center sc. (16 shells, 16 sc)
In the next round you will be creating the ch-5 spaces that your next round of petals are going to be worked into. The ch-5 will sit behind the petals you created in the previous round. Make sure to maintain relaxed tension when crocheting your chains. You will slip stitch into the back bar of the center sc that is between each shell. You do not need to turn the piece over to complete this round.
Round 11: sl st into back bar of sc, note: the back bar is behind the stitch and is not the same thing as the back loop, *ch 5, sk shell, sl st into back bar of next sc; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (16 ch-5 sps)
Round 12: ch 1, center sc in first center sc from round 10, 8 dc in ch-5 sp, *center sc in next center sc from round 10, 8 dc in ch-5 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first center sc. (16 shells, 16 center sc)
Round 13: sl st into back bar of sc, *ch 6, sk shell, sl st into back bar of next sc; repeat from * around, final sl st counts as join. (16 ch-6 sps)
Optional: If you are using the ombré yarn color, I suggest using some of the yarn that matches what you used at the center of your square to crochet the popcorn stitches in this round. That is what I did in my coral-colored square.
Round 14: ch 1, popcorn in center of first center sc from round 12, (2 dc, 6 tr, 2 dc) in ch-6 sp, *popcorn in center of next center sc from round 12, (2 dc, 6 tr, 2 dc) in ch-6 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc of popcorn st. (16 popcorn sts, 16 shells)
This next round is worked at the back of your flower. You will evenly working a series of chains and slip stitches in preparation for turning this circle into a square. The slip stitches at the back of the popcorn stitch are to be worked in the slip stitches used to form the popcorn stitch originally.
Round 15: ch 3 (this is just to move you into position and will not count as a ch-3 space), sl st into back of petal between the 5th and 6th sts of the petal, *ch 3, sl st into back of popcorn st, ch 3, sl st into back of next petal between 5th and 6th sts of petal, [ch 5, sl st into back of next petal between 5th and 6th sts of the petal] 3 times; repeat from * around, join with sl st to back of first petal skipping the first 3 chs of the round. (8 ch-3 sps, 12 ch-5 sps)
This is the most complex round of the whole piece. Take the round 1 comma at a time. The psc chain stitches (psc ch st) will be worked in the popcorn stitches from round 14.
Round 16: ch 1, *(3 hdc, 2 2dc cluster sts) in ch-3 sp, (psc ch st, ch 1, psc ch st) in sl st of popcorn st from prev round, (2 2dc cluster sts, 3 hdc) in next ch-3 sp, (hdc, 5 sc) in next ch-5 sp, 6 sc in next ch-5 sp, (5 sc, hdc) in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first hdc. (16 2dc cluster sts, 8 psc chain sts, 64 sc, 32 hdc. 120 sts total, 4 ch-1 sps)
Round 17: ch 1, sc in next 5 sts center sc in psc chain st, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 sp, center sc in psc chain st, sc in next 8 sts, [sc spike st in sl st of popcorn st from round 14, sc in next 6 sts] 2 times, sc spike st in sl st of popcorn, sc in next 8 sts, center sc in psc chain st; repeat from * around, omitting final 5 sts on last repeat, join with sl st to first sc. (140 sts total, 4 ch-1 sps)
All stitches of this next round will be worked in the back bar of the sc stitch unless otherwise indicated. The back bar is behind the stitch and is not the same thing as the back loop. Center sc stitches from the previous round will get another center sc worked in them. The only spots where you will not be working in the back bar, or center sc stitches are in the corner ch-1 sps.
Round 18: ch 1, working all sts of round in back bar of sc unless otherwise indicated, sc in next 5 sts, center sc in next st, sc in next st, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, center sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, [center sc in next center sc, sc in next 6 sts] 2 times, center sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, center sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, omitting last 7 sts of repeat, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 19: ch 1, sc in each sc st, center sc in each center sc st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in each ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first. (39 sts per side, 4 ch-1 sps)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Block for best results.
Want more gorgeous crochet patterns, and a little encouragement for your day? Sign up for my newsletter here! That way you’ll never miss out on special events, or freebies I’m offering.
JOIN ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA
I would love to see a picture when you’re done, so please feel free to come by my Facebook group and show off your finished project! Be sure to tag @kirstenhollowaydesigns when you share pictures of your project on Instagram!
You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram, and Ravelry for more beautiful crochet patterns.
PATTERN TERMS AND CONDITIONS:
You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! Please credit/link Kirsten Holloway Designs when selling finished products online. The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies. If you enjoyed this pattern or found it useful, why not share a link to this post with your friends?
Colleen Roberts says
Kirsten, in round 14 when using the ombré color and using the darker color for the popcorn and the rest of the round do you carry the yarn around to do the petals? In other words needing 2 strands, one color for popcorn, and one for petals? Love the pattern!!! Thanks, Colleen
Kirsten says
Yes, that is correct, Colleen! You’ll just work over the color you’re not using. 😊